54 EYE AREA CARE
as Langerhans cells and is involved in triggering immune responses. Given the thinness of the skin in the area around the eyes, the effects of vasodilatation and vasoconstriction are very quickly apparent, as are changes in the pressure of the interstitial fluid.
Study of nitric oxide, the primary EDRF Blood vessels are made of several layers of fibrous cells, one of which is in direct contact with the blood: the endothelium. Made of flat cells, it has many functions, from haemostasis to vasoconstriction, for which it secretes vasodilator and vasoconstrictor factors. Among the vasodilators is nitric oxide
(NO), which has been identified as the primary EDRF (Endothelium Derived Relaxing Factor). This liposoluble gas activates a chemical reaction, leading to the relaxing of blood vessels or vasodilation.
Reduction of sensitivity Inflammation is the tissues’ response to external threats: it is part of the defence mechanisms through which they recognise, destroy and eliminate any foreign substances. Various types of cell take part in these mechanisms; in the epidermis, it is the keratinocytes that we will study. The start of inflammation, and its spreading from the initial location involves chemical factors that are synthesised locally or inactive precursors. Naolys studied 3 inflammation mediators synthesised in the area around the hair bulb: two well-known cytokines and a prostaglandin. IL1-alpha is an intracellular mediator
cytokine that is synthesised and then stored inside the cell as an inactive precursor. It has several local and systemic biological functions (in gene expression, cell proliferation, the nervous system, etc.). IL-6 is a pro-inflammatory cytokine that
regulates the activation, growth and differentiation of lymphocytes. It belongs to the group of proteins that direct the secretion of anti-bodies to fight against extra-cellular pathogens. PGE2 is an eicosanoid, derived from
phospholipids in the cell membranes. PGE2 acts on muscle fibres in the blood
IL1-Alpha (pg/ml) 391 290 273 255 Released (14 CO2 1618 ) (cpm) 2000 2074 2150 1618 1159 904 1224 1270 Released (14 CO2 ) (cpm)
Control
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
In the physiological conditions At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, in physiological conditions, the release of CO2 and 33% respectively.
increases by 24%, 28% Figure 6: Study of cellular respiration.
vessels, causing vasodilatation, increased permeability and oedema.
Study of inflammation mediators (Fig 6) Study of IL1-alpha At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction, IL1-alpha decreases by 26%, 32% and 36% respectively.
Study of IL-6 At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction, IL-6 decreases by 23%, 30% and 35% respectively.
Study of PGE2 At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction, PGE2 decreases by 24%, 27% and 33% respectively.
Increase of detoxification Cellular respiration is a redox chemical reaction which supplies energy to cells to grow and to function. Cells produce energy with glucides, as ATP through cell respiration. The activity of the plant cell complex on the cell and respiratory metabolism has been evaluated by the metabolisation of glucose by the cells of the epidermis in hypoxia conditions. In vitro hypoxia conditions induce deep alterations of cell electromechanical functions, with an increase in the production of lactate, a fall in the quantity of ATP, ADP, and a loss of LDH. Improved cellular respiration results in better functioning of the skin cells, with improved elimination of toxins. Naolys used the release of CO2
as an
indicator of cellular respiration because it IL6 (pg/ml)
350 270 244 228 250 190
enables verification of good oxygenation through to the end of the breathing process.
Study of cellular respiration (Fig 7) At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, in physiological conditions, the release of CO2 increases by 24%, 28% and 33% respectively. At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%,
in asphixia conditions, the release of CO2 increases by 28%, 35% and 40% respectively.
Conclusion Because the eye area can change in many ways in two key locations – the eyelids and corner of the eyes - it is necessary to act simultaneously to slow these changes, that are mainly due to a lack of hydration, a slackening of the tissue or a slowing of micro-circulation in the skin for a more uniform, smoother, brighter look and a more youthful appearance. Naolys’s ingredient reduces circles,
puffiness, crow’s feet and wrinkles on the eyelids. It also enhances radiance, uniformity of skin colour; promotes the elimination of toxins, increases micro-circulation in the skin. Other attributes include reducing skin irritation and keeping water in the epidermis, helping to restore the skin barrier. InitialE [PT+TMG] contributes to the densification of the dermis and helps to improve or restore dermis functions, increasing skin resistance. InitialE [PT+TMG] can be used in skin care
or makeup products like cream, fluid, serum, balm, lotion, milk, foundation, concealer, etc. In any cosmetic or skin care product intended to combat changes in the area around the eyes.
PC PGE2 (pg/UA)
Control
Asphixia
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
In the asphixial conditions At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, in asphixial conditions, the release of CO2 and 40% respectively.
increases by 28%, 35%
183
168
UVB
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)+UVB
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)+UVB
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)+UVB
Study of IL1-alpha At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction, IL1-alpha decreases by 26%, 32% and 36% respectively.
Figure 7: Study of inflammation mediators. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE September 2020
UVB
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)+UVB
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)+UVB
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)+UVB
Study of IL6 At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction, IL1-alpha decreases by 23%, 30% and 35% respectively.
UVB
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)+UVB
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)+UVB
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)+UVB
Study of PGE2 At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction, PGE2 decreases by 24%, 27% and 33% respectively.
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