SKIN CARE 77
Inspired by Mars: natural ingredient hydrates skin
n Emmanuelle Bisceglia, Elaine Ferreira, Silvia Pastor, Patricia Carulla, Mikel Gorostiaga – LipoTrue, Spain
Day after day our skin, the first line of defence against external aggressions, is exposed to pollution, UV rays, among others, which little by little, drop by drop deteriorate the epidermal barrier and its functions. The consequences on our skin are well
known with a loss of water leading to a dry skin, itching, inflammation, alteration of wound healing process and alteration of protection against external agents.1
A dry
skin is characterised by a lack of adherence between cells leading to trans epidermal water loss, while a well hydrated skin is characterised by a strong cohesion between keratinocytes avoiding water loss. A good hydrastasis, that means ability to
maintain a hydration state, is essential to preserve water evaporation, and ensure its retention and its transport in all skin. MARSturizer™ is inspired by the planet
Mars. Four billion years ago, Mars was covered by water, but due to the action of wind and solar UV rays, Mars became the red arid and lifeless planet that we know today. Similar to Mars that was full of water, at birth our skin is well hydrated but with time and external aggressions (UV, pollution, etc) the skin’s hydration and functions are altered. MARSturizer is a novel bacterial ferment obtained from an acidophile microorganism sampled in the Rio Tinto, (Spain) considered by astrobiologists as “Mars on Earth” due to its similar conditions to Mars.2 MARSturizer™ (now referred to as “the novel bacterial ferment”) demonstrated
in vitro the preservation of skin hydrastasis thanks to its similar activity to glycerol, and a reduction of trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) in vitro and in vivo. Also, it proved in vitro skin regeneration and reinforced the skin barrier and showed ex vivo a daily skin protection against UV and IR radiation. It exhibited in vivo an improvement of skin hydration, a reduction of erythema index and an increase of the radiance, firmness and elasticity of the skin How is the skin hydrastasismaintained?
Maintaining hydration There is a constant flow of water transport from the deepest layers of the epidermis to the stratum corneum. But not all the water reaches the stratum corneum since the permeability of stratum granulosum and stratum corneum does not allow it, preventing water evaporation. The water content in the part of the viable epidermis is practically 70%, while it falls drastically on reaching the stratum corneum to levels of 15-30%.3 0.1 mg/mL of the novel bacterial ferment showed to up regulate the gene expression of Aquaporin 3 and filaggrin, involved in water transport and retention, respectively. Filaggrin breakdowns into hygroscopic amino acids, and constitute one element of natural moisturising factor (NMF). Aquaporin 3 is an aquaglyceroporin permeable both to water and glycerol and contributes to glycerol transport and synthesis, providing skin hydration.4-5 Glycerol is known to be the natural
endogenous humectant produced by the
sebaceous gland, important for skin hydration, elasticity and epidermal barrier repair.5-6
Skin protection from dehydration
was demonstrated with 0.005 mg/mL and 0.01 mg/mL of the active ingredient in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (HEK) showing an increase of cell viability by 27% vs basal, when exposed to osmotic stress condition and a similar activity than glycerol, at lower concentration (4 mg/mL).
Amelioration of skin regeneration Skin regeneration is the term used to describe the resurfacing of damaged skin with a new epithelium, important to preserve strong skin barrier and avoid skin water loss. Skin regeneration is composed of different steps such as cell proliferation, differentiation, migration and desquamation of corneocytes. The key point of skin regeneration is the
maintenance of calcium gradient. The quantitative distribution of calcium
ions (Ca2+) in the epidermis is heterogenous, low in basal and spinous layers of the epidermis, and peak in stratum granulosum. A disturbance in this gradient leads to impaired skin barrier function and dry skin. Calcium channels genes TRPV3 and TRPV4 (Transient Receptor Potential Vanilloid 3 and 4) involved in calcium gradient appeared to be upregulated when analysed by qPCR (Smart Data), indicating potential benefits on the barrier function since they are involved in keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation.7 Moreover, the novel bacterial ferment
(0.1 mg/mL) demonstrated an upregulation of the gene CDSN, which encodes for corneodesmosin a glycoprotein, strictly Calcium-dependent, of the corneodesmosomes contributing to a normal desquamation.3-6-8 In vitro, + 41% in migration rate was
observed after 48 hours of treatment with marine ferment versus untreated cells, providing the skin barrier regeneration (Fig 1).
Figure 1: 10X phase-contrast images of migrating HaCaT cells at T=48 hours (bottom) after “scratch” and treatment with MARSturizer.
September 2020
Reinforcement of skin barrier The ion calcium also participates in the
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