HAIR CARE 65
Mediterranean eco-conscious active for hair protection
nMariagrazia Barbagallo – Bionap, Italy
Hair is constantly exposed to environmental stressors, cosmetic and styling treatments, which affect its wellbeing and appearance. Environmental stress comprises outdoor
or urban pollution, which means exposure to the airborne particulate matter (PM), a complex mixture of small particles and liquid droplets including carbon particles, heavy metals, dust, acids and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) derived from cars (exhaust gas from traffic or hoods) and industries. Urban pollution raises significant
concerns since data from WHO (World Health Organization) Global Ambient Air Quality Database (update 2018) state that 91% of the world’s population lives in places where air quality exceeds WHO guideline limits.1 PM is the most harmful component of air
pollution. It induces oxidative stress via production of reactive oxygen species and secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α, IL-1α, and IL-8. Moreover, PM is phototoxic.2 As a result of excessive exposure to
pollutants, hair and scalp appear dull, dry and with a lifeless appearance. Fabio Rinaldi, in 2008, studied the levels
of pollutants in the air and their effect on the scalp, finding that they lead to hair loss, poor growth and a clinical condition of Sensitive Scalp Syndrome, characterised by scalp irritation, redness, itching, excessive sebum secretion, dandruff, pain in the hair roots.3 Also Misery et al. demonstrated that the
main triggering factors that cause Sensitive Scalp Syndrome are pollution, heat, emotions and shampoos.4
Bahta and
colleagues reported that hair follicle cells, exposed to environmental stress, are subjected to a premature senescence, which means, at a macroscopic level, hair thinning.5 Even massive exposure to sun radiation
is an environmental stressor and represents a threat for both skin and hair. Excessive sun exposition is the most frequent cause of hair shaft’s structural impairment. Photochemical impairment of the hair includes degradation and loss of hair
September 2020 Figure 1: ORAC value of Olea-HT 10, Vitamin C and Vitamin E.
proteins as well as degradation of hair pigment. UV-B radiation is responsible for hair protein loss and UV-A radiation is responsible for colour changes. Absorption of radiation in photosensitive amino acids of the hair and their photochemical degradation produces free radicals, which
have an adverse impact on hair proteins, especially keratin.6 Melanin can partially immobilize free
radicals and block their entrance in keratin matrix. Mahe et al. proposed a direct
physicochemical stress from UV radiation to PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Abstract
Constant exposure to environmental stressors and prolonged use of heat styling devices may affect the health of the hair. Oxidation of hair structures is one the main mechanisms involved in its impairment and lead to degradation of cuticle and cortex layers. Consequently, hair becomes fragile, porous, with a dull appearance and it is more prone to split and break. Cosmetic formulas, added with appropriate antioxidants, as well as with film-formers and UV filters, can represent a powerful ally to protect hair fibres. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the capability of a natural and
sustainable antioxidant ingredient, that originates from a by-product of Sicilian olive oil production (Olea-HT 10), to protect hair locks from thermal stress and damage induced by heavy metals and UV, which represent an outdoor constant threat in consumers’ day life. Hair locks were pre-treated with the active ingredient and then subjected to the above-mentioned insults. Collected data showed that Olea-HT 10 was able to strengthen the antioxidant
defenses of hair locks, to reduce the production of carbonylated proteins and maintain the integrity of hair cuticles. Therefore, this active ingredient is highly suitable for hair care products aimed at protecting and making hair shafts more resilient.
Olea-HTTM 10 72000 µmolTE/g n Vitamin E n Vitamin C nOlea-HTTM 10
Vitamin C 1450 µmolTE/g;
Vitamin E 1.25 µmolTE/g;
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
