ANTI-AGEING 71
Synthetic peptides for younger generations
n Francesca Pascucci, Remo Campiche - DSM, Switzerland
As a company that places a particular focus on tracking consumer trends, we have seen beauty and personal care consumers become both more knowledgeable and more conscientious in their product’s choices over the past decade. As an outcome, at the same time as an increasing demand for highly effective skin care solutions that provide visible and immediate results, there is also demand for products consistent with broader environmental, health, and societal concerns such as sustainability and veganism. This overall trend can be summed up as ‘Conscious Beauty Care’. This tendency is also true in the anti-
ageing skin care segment where we additionally detect a noticeable and growing demand among younger generations for products that prevent or
Relaxed Expressive Abstract
In a context of increasing consumer demand for effective but sustainable beauty products, skin peptides could offer a reliable answer. With their known and targeted mode of action, peptides deliver measurable and reversible benefits and are also an effective alternative for people looking for cosmetics that do not deplete natural resources. DSM’s peptide, SYN®
-AKE (Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide
Diacetat), is already proven to reduce the appearance of deep, mimic wrinkles. Following a new, comprehensive study, the company can now bring new insights about how people age facially and show that as well as targeting wrinkles in older women, SYN-AKE may help delay their formation in younger women. It could therefore be suitable for use in formulations developed to meet growing demand for anti-ageing skin care products in the under 35s.
delay the signs of skin ageing.1 Today consumers are more skin aware
than they used to be and the figures suggest that prevention will play a major role in driving the category’s penetration further.
Relaxed
Why peptides are a relevant solution In the light of these trends, synthetic, small molecular weight peptides are becoming a widely relevant solution. With their known mode of action, these defined active compounds are already proven to be particularly effective at addressing common signs of skin ageing and are also recognised as a sustainable and ‘clean’ option suitable for ‘vegan friendly’ claims. Our company has been developing
synthetic peptides for more than 60 years and was also one of the first to explore their potential for cosmetic applications. To identify potential structural features that could be responsible for a molecule’s biological activity our scientists use molecular modelling – a tool new to cosmetics. Initially, molecules are modelled virtually to identify the most promising lead compounds. Based on these in silico results, we then
synthesise and test a library of active compounds to narrow the selection to those which are most effective. This technique, which we call rational design, enables us to understand how products perform at molecular level and how our skin actives bind in their biological target within the skin. Having become aware of the growing
Figure 1: The transition from relaxed daughter to angry daughter compared to relaxed mother shows that: where the daughter only has expression lines related to momentaneous facial contraction, the mother already shows persistent mimic wrinkles in relaxed facial mode.
September 2020
demand in the under 35s age group for preventive ageing solutions,1
we therefore
decided to use this insight as the basis for a new study. So we decided to investigate
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