72 ANTI-AGEING


the effects of our active, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetat (referred to hereafter as DABBA) not only in the traditional core target of women aged 50-65 years, for wrinkles’ reduction claims, but also for a younger target, women aged 21-35 years, for supporting a “wrinkles prevention” proposition.


DABBA: what we know already DABBA is modelled on Waglerin-1, a protein found in the venom of the temple viper Tropidolaemus wagleri. This protein acts by inhibiting the nicotonic acetylcholine receptor2


which blocks


muscular contraction. DABBA acts on this same receptor, although the effect is transient and reversible. This causes the mimic muscles in the face to relax, smoothing out facial wrinkles. The effect is similar to botulinum toxin but does not have to be injected subcutaneously and there is no loss of facial expression. DABBA has been proven to be


particularly effective in reducing the appearance of deep mimic wrinkles in women over the age of 50.3


However, in


view of the fact that among under-35s, the average age at which consumers start using anti-ageing skin care is 26 years,1


the focus


of our new study was on DABBA’s potential to delay the appearance of mimic lines in younger women as well.


Comparing mimic lines in mothers & daughters – our rationale Our market researchers engaged with consumers around the world and learned that many younger women assume they will age facially in a similar way to their mothers. Some even report that where they can see


mimic and expression lines on their own faces, their mothers already have developed more defined permanent wrinkles. We therefore decided to capitalise on


this insight to illustrate “prevention” in a tangible way: we involved in our clinical study couples of biological mothers and daughters, under the assumption that they age in a similar way and so mothers can offer a window into daughters’ future. This assumption is certainly supported


by the insights, mentioned above, but it also has a scientific rationale. Daughters share 50% of their genome with their mothers and thus, daughters often look similar to their mothers and age similarly. Beyond genetics, it has been shown


previously that expression lines eventually turn into persistent wrinkles, especially on the forehead and the crow’s feet,4


is also preliminary evidence for similar wrinkle imprinting in mothers and their daughters.4,5 Moreover, a study by Yamagata et. al.6


provides a biological basis for the strong behavioural and emotional bond between


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE and there


500 0


-500 *


-1000 -1500 -2000


n Placebo n 4% SYN® -AKE


Figure 3: Computer based wrinkle analysis on images after 4 weeks of treatment with 4% DABBA. Vertical axis = Delta wrinkles length after 4 weeks treatment. Mean delta of baseline to 4 weeks for all volunteers is shown. *p<0.05 vs placebo.


mothers and daughters – stronger than any other one in families. Multiple theoretical perspectives recognise the mother- daughter bond as lifelong, intimate and developmentally important. Furthermore, the importance of the mother-daughter relationship has been well-documented across cultures.7-8


mother-daughter bond and the genetic predisposition of ageing,5


Despite the strong a proactive


approach to skin care can play a big role in well-ageing.


Our study design We carried out our single-centre, doubleblind, randomised study over a four- week period. There were two target groups: “mothers”, that is, women in the 50-65 age bracket with mild to moderate wrinkles and “daughters”, that is, women in the 21-35 age bracket with mild to no facial wrinkles. Some of our volunteers were biological


mothers and daughters but some were not related. Within each target age group, volunteers were divided into two subgroups. One sub-group in each age category was treated with a formulation including 4% DABBA while the other was treated with a placebo. In the DABBA groups there were 29 subjects aged 50-65 and 25 subjects aged 21-35. For the placebo groups, there were 28 subjects aged 50-65 and 29 subjects aged 21-35. In both cases, the product was applied twice daily to the full face and our focus areas


were the forehead, eyes, nasolabial folds and “marionette” lines (around the mouth). The following measurements were taken:


l Image acquisition using a VISIA CR system (both age groups). Subjects adopted a neutral, unsmiling expression for images taken from the left, centre, and right views. At baseline and week 4, an additional centre view image was taken with an “angry” frowning expression, and an additional left view image was taken with a large, smiling expression.


l Primoslite imaging. Images were taken on


the forehead and on the crow’s feet (both age groups). A self-assessment questionnaire which was completed by all subjects at week 4.


Our findings Visualising the progression of mimic wrinkles To illustrate the progression of mimic wrinkles we took images of all volunteers’ faces in an expressive mode (angry or smiling) and relaxed, neutral mode at the baseline date and at four weeks. As Figure 1 shows, where the “daughter” has expression lines when she contracts her face by frowning or smiling the “mother” already has persistent mimic wrinkles in relaxed facial mode. To illustrate DABBA’s proven ability to


help skin relax without losing its potential for expressiveness, volunteers in the mothers group were asked to assume as


September 2020 -14% Baseline Week 4


Figure 2:Glabella wrinkles, angry face on a representative volunteer using 4% SYN-AKE.


Delta Wrinkles Lenght after 4 weeks treatment


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