HAIR CARE 35 without oils in the formulation
l Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is an excellent deposition polymer for micellar oils and therefore the combination of both provides a significant improvement in conditioning. The prototype formulations were then
compared to other products. The wet combing energy measured for various formulations is presented in Figure 4. The non-conditioning shampoo is a silicone- free shampoo, the conditioning shampoo contains silicone. Both are based on a SLES:CAPB chassis. Of the three micellar formulations, the prototypes with Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride performs best, especially in a sulfate-free chassis. Ashland’s new Cassia
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride polymer works out of standard sulfate surfactant based systems delivering excellent conditioning and deposition properties for clear and turbid systems. Cleaning performance of the sulfate-
free systems were studied via laser light scattering on the hair tresses. In the present study, clean hair tresses are treated with artificial sebum to generate residues on the cuticles. This serves as a starting point to evaluate the cleansing efficacy of shampoos. Typical images
Phase Ingredients A Deionized Water
ClearHance™ conditioning polymer
Dissolvine GL38
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 30%)
Lumerol® Iselux® B K5019 (30%) Crovol A70
PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor Oil
Perfume C Ceraphyl™ 60 ester
Liquid Germal™ Plus preservative
D Citric Acid Sodium Chloride Aqua
Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (30%)
LQ-CLR-SB (30%) Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (30%)
PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor Oil Parfum
Quaternium-22
Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Citric Acid Sodium Chloride
obtained with this set up are showed in Figure 5. An efficient shampoo will remove all residues on cuticles and thus restore the sharp specular peak of light as well as remove all light scattering from these residues. Image analysis allows for quantification
Improved transfer-resistance. INCI %
ad 100% 0.30
0.20 8.00 12.30
26.70 0.30 0.30 0.20
0.30 0.5
a.n. a.n.
Table 2. Formulation Z351-44e, micellar sulfate-free cleanse and moisturise shampoo.
of the cleansing efficacy. The average lift (angle) of the cuticles can be calculated from the light scattering. The sharper the cuticle angle, the cleaner the hair. Sebum on hair deposit a thick film which covers the lift of the cuticles, hence a calculated hair cuticle angle lower for the tress
Supplier Local
Ashland Akzo Nobel Local
Zschimmer&S chwartz
Innospec Croda Local
Robertet Ashland
Ashland
Local Local
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) Isododecane
Stay-in-place Cyclomethicone- free!
With Siltech, it’s not just lip service… Siltech’s Silmer® silicone MQ resins provide excellent
transfer-
resistance as well as a soft, powdery skin feel. Silmer® QT9-30-CG is ideal
formulations. Cyclic-free and transfer-resistant = worry-free! September 2020 for both water-based and oil-based color cosmetic
Siltech Corporation Toronto, Canada +1 416.424.4567
www.siltech.com
sales@siltech.com
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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