34 HAIR CARE
deliver a good level of conditioning without silicone and a mild but efficient cleansing. Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is an ideal candidate to deliver those. A special focus was put on performance in sulfate-free surfactant systems. Formulation efforts resulted in silicone-free and sulfate- free micellar shampoos that fulfil the following criteria. The shampoo must be clear, contain a micellar oil complex, provide efficient cleansing and conditioning and must be free of silicones. Two formulations were therefore developed, listed in Table 1 and 2 and will be referred to later one by their formulation codes.
Performance in low-surfactant formulations The two formulations listed in Table 1 and 2 were tested systematically for their technical performance on various attributes expected from shampoos, which are foam generation, wet conditioning and cleansing. Figure 2 shows optical images of the
foam generated in a controlled manner using a Kruss foam analyser for a commercial micellar shampoo and for formulation Z351-39e. The prototype formulation contains a relatively low amount of surfactant (total of 11.4wt%) whereas the commercial shampoo contains 16wt%, a significantly higher fraction. Qualitatively, there is little difference
between the two despite the difference in surfactant levels which shows a good foam performance from the prototype with an inherently mild surfactant base both from the nature and the amount of surfactant. The flash foam, the foam volume and
foam stability were also quantified in the same experiment. The foam heights measured as a function of time for prototype Z351-39e and a commercial micellar shampoo are very similar both for initial foam height (flash foam) and their decaying profiles. In order to demonstrate the positive
Phase Ingredients
A Deionized Water Dissolvine GL 38* ClearHanceTM
C conditioning polymer
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30%)
Emal® B 228D (28%)
Plantacare 2000® Crovol®
A70* Kolliphor® RH40* Nutritic karite*
C CeraphylTM 60 OptiphenTM 200
D Citric Acid ester Sodium Chloride PERSONAL CARE EUROPE (50%) Aqua Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Decyl Glucoside PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Parfum
Quaternium-22
preservative Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol Citric Acid
Sodium Chloride
Figure 2: Foam analysis for prototype Z351-39e containing 11.4wt% of surfactant (left) and a commercial micellar shampoo containing 16wt% of surfactant (right). Shampoos were diluted down to 10%, the foam analysis was performed on a Kruss foam analyser.
50000 45000 40000 35000 30000 25000 20000 15000 10000 5000 0
non-conditioning shampoo
1 2 3
Z351-39K shampoo without clearhance c
Z351-39E without micellar oils
Z351-39E gentle micellar cleanse & moisturize shampoo
Figure 3: Wet combing energy for four different shampoo formulations. The non conditioning shampoo is a simple SLES:CAPB 6:1 mix thickened with NaCl. Conditioning performance on wet hair was measured using an Instron Bluehill 3. Three double bleached Caucasian hair tresses per sample were measured. Each hair tress weighted 3 grams for 25 cm of free length. 0.1 gram of shampoo per gram of hair was applied per tress.
influence of Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride on the conditioning of the hair, wet combing was measured on formulations with increasing
INCI %
ad 100% 0.10
0.30
10.00 26.00
1.00 0.30 0.30 0.50 0.20 0.70 a.n. a.n.
Table 1. Formulation Z351-39e, gentle micellar cleanse and moisturise shampoo.
Supplier Local
Akzo Nobel Ashland
Local Kao
BASF Croda Sigma
Robertet Ashland Ashland Local Local
complexity, from a chassis only (non- conditioning shampoo) to the fully formulated sulfate-free shampoo with both Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and micellar oils. Conditioning performance on wet hair
was measured using an Instron Bluehill 3. Three double bleached Caucasian hair tresses per sample were measured. Each hair tress weighed 3 grams for 25 cm of free length. 0.1 gram of shampoo per gram of hair was applied per tress. The lower the combing energy the
better the conditioning. The non- conditioning shampoo (silicone-free) is the negative control. The main findings are (numbers relate to the numbers in Figure 3): l Micellar oils alone do not improve conditioning, as expected as oils do not deposit efficiently on hair without a deposition polymer
l Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride deposition polymer has a positive influence on combability, even
September 2020
Comb energy, g* mm
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