24 NATURALS


mode of action linked to this protein: a plumping action. To demonstrate its activity, we quantified


the expression of the gene SIRT 1 coding for sirtuin-1, using amplification and RT-PCR quantification in both the absence and presence of 0.008% anti-ageing active (Fig 9). Tested at a very low level, the anti-


ageing active reduces the expression of the gene coding for sirtuin-1 by 55%. Inhibiting sirtuin-1 is known to reduce lipolysis and stimulate adipogenesis at the opposite of a sirtuin-1 stimulation. In line with this premise, the anti-ageing active can reduce loss of facial fat, a process which is associated with skin ageing, and limit the formation of unsightly hollows and folds on the face, by facilitating the adipocyte metabolism in the hypodermis. The anti- ageing active redensifying effect was also confirmed by an in vivo self-assessment test on volunteers (see section on ‘self- assessment test’).


Firming action The firmness of the skin largely depends on the strength and tone of the SC. Strengthening this area will, therefore, ensure the epidermis remains firm and allows the skin to better withstand the tensions generated by the contractions of the facial muscles which cause wrinkles and reduced firmness. To demonstrate its activity, a screening


test using DNA chips was carried out on the anti-ageing active. The test shows the level of expression (activation or inhibition) of genes coding for essential proteins. It is followed by a quantitative analysis of the gene expression using RT-PCR. The test is carried out on a culture of keratinocytes, some of which are treated with 0.008% anti- ageing active and some of which are not. We focused on the activation of three genes involved in junctions and cohesion of the epidermis cells:


100%


300% 250% 200% 150% 100% 50% 0%


(not treated) Control Claudin 1 Figure 10: Firming action.


l The CLDN1 gene coding for the Claudin-1 protein


l The CRCT1 gene coding for the protein NICE 1, involved in cell differentiation


l The SPRR1A gene coding for the SPRR proteins These proteins are responsible for the


epidermis strength and firmness (Fig 10). The anti-ageing active activates the


expression of the genes coding for Claudin- 1, Nice-1 and SPRR proteins to a moderate yet significant level. The anti-ageing active activates the expression of the genes responsible for the cohesion and firmness of the epidermis. These results were confirmed by an in vivo self-assessment test on volunteers (see section on ‘self- assessment test’).


In vivo efficacy self-assessment test on volunteers To confirm the results of the in vitro tests, the anti-ageing active efficacy was tested using self-assessment on 25 women aged between 31 and 65 years, after 28 days of treatment with an emulsion containing 2% anti-ageing active. The volunteers rated the following


Nice 1 SPRR1A


Applications l Global well-ageing face care products l Mature skin care products l Anti-wrinkle, resurfacing, firming, plumping products


l Neck and décolleté care products l Firming products for the arms


Conclusion There is no effective way (so far!) to stop skin ageing. However, supplementing and protecting the skin can maintain a beautiful skin over time. Selecting tested natural phyto-cosmetic actives to develop effective natural cosmetic products supports the consumer goal of wellbeing with well- ageing.


PC


References 1 Kanwar AJ. Skin barrier function. Indian J Med


Res. 2018; 147(1): 117-118


2 Proksch E, Brandner JM, Jensen JM. The skin: an indispensable barrier. Experimental Dermatology 2008; 17:1063-1072


3 Wikramanayake TC, Stojadinovic O, Tomic- Canic M. Epidermal differentiation in barrier maintenance and wound healing. Advances in wound care 2014; 3(3): 272-280


4 Strugar TL, Kuo A, Seité S, Lin M, Lio P. Connecting the dots: from skin barrier dysfunction to allergic sensitization, and the role of moisturizers in repairing the skin barrier. Journal Of Drugs In Dermatology 2019; 18(6): 581-586


80%


5 Farage MA, Miller KW. Structural characteristics of the aging skin: a review. Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology 2007; 26: 343-357


60%


6 Elias PM. Skin barrier function. Curr Allergy Asthma Rep. 2008; 8(4): 299-305


40%


7 Bergman S. et al. Claudin-1 decrease impacts epidermal barrier function in atopic dermatitis lesions dosedependently. Scientific Reports 2020; 10:12p.


20%


8 Chambers ES, Vukmanovic-Stejic M. Skin barrier immunity and ageing. Immunology 2019;160: 116-125


0% Anti-wrinkle Firmness Figure 11: In vivo efficacy on volunteers. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Hydration Plumping Tensor


9 Baumann L. Skin ageing and its treatment. J Pathol. 2007; 211: 241-251


10 Picard F. et al. Sirt1 promotes fat mobilization in white adipocytes by repressing PPAR gamma. Nature 2004; 429: 771-776


September 2020


features on an analogical scale going from 0 to 10 cm over a 28-day period: Anti-wrinkle, Plumping, Firming, Lifting, and Hydration. The results are expressed in terms of overall percentage improvement (Fig 11). Around 70% of the volunteers have noticed an improvement in the quality of their skin: reduction of wrinkles and fine lines, lifting and firming effect but also an increase in skin firmness and hydration. An emulsion containing 2% anti-ageing


active improves the skin by reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, by lifting and plumping it but also by firming and hydrating it.


Percent of volunteers who observed an improvement


Expression of gene


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