PRESERVATIVES 29


A natural, upcycled, broad- spectrum antimicrobial


n Andrea Mitarotonda, PhD CChem FRSC – Independent Consultant, UK Philippe Bernard, PhD – GreenPharma, France Dario Parente - AMITA Health Care UK, UK


Sales of natural and organic cosmetic & personal care products have been steadily growing for the last 15 years or so with a worldwide turnover amounting to approximately 8.4 billion USD in 20101


Abstract and


forecast to reach 16 billion USD at a CAGR of 10% in 2020.2 This reflects a general consumer’s need


for greener products, not only within the beauty industry but in all paths of life, e.g. electric cars, sustainable houses, reduction of single use plastic, etc. Consumers perceive natural & organic


beauty products as healthier, in much the same way as they do within the food industry. As if this were not enough, consumers’


perception is boosted by bad press aimed at badmouthing all sorts of cosmetic ingredients, including, perhaps especially, preservatives. Furthermore, and rightly so,


preservatives, i.e. those substances with antimicrobial properties listed in Annex V of EC/1223/2009, are constantly under the spotlight of Safety and Regulatory Authorities, whose top priority is consumers’ health. This leaves formulators with fewer “go


to” options and the result is that, in recent years, we have seen a significant decrease in the use of certain substances, e.g. parabens, while the use of others, e.g. organic acids, phenoxyethanol and botanicals, has exponentially increased. As shown in literature, plant-derived


molecules have very often a wide array of properties that make them suitable to not only act as efficacious antimicrobials, but also to deliver much sought skin benefits.3,4,5 However, growing awareness of the


impact the cosmetic industry can have on the environment has been pushing formulators to use ingredients that are not only natural, but also more responsibly sourced and manufactured. Green Chemistry, biotechnologies and the use of waste materials and by-products


September 2020


Figure 1: Effect of Hinoline on collagen III (Collagen III shown in green, 40X, Elisa method, quantification by number of blue pixels).


of various industries is the key to producing cosmetic ingredients with a more favourable environmental footprint. Hinoline, a combination of hinokitol and


levulinic acid patented by GreenPharma and exclusively distributed in the UK by AMITA UK, meets all these requirements while being an effective and easy-to-use antimicrobial.


Hinokitiol and levulinic acid deliver multiple skin benefits Hinokitiol is a tropolone type natural compound first isolated from the essential oil of Chamaecyparis taiwanensis, i.e. Taiwanese hinoki, by Nozoe in 1936.6


It is


also found in high concentration in Hiba cedar wood (Thujopsis dolabrata). The compound has been traditionally


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


Global demand for greener cosmetic products has been steadily increasing for nearly two decades, prompting formulators to be on a constant quest for natural and effective ingredients. In recent years, the use of natural and sustainable materials has been evolving and


more complex trends have emerged, such as the use of substances that deliver multiple benefits as well as the use of waste materials and by-products of various industries as a source of ingredients for cosmetic applications. In the meantime, Annex V of the European Cosmetic Regulation has been facing


continuous scrutiny, leaving formulators with fewer substances they can use to efficaciously preserve products. The present article will discuss a natural antimicrobial made from upcycled materials


which has been proven to be an outstanding choice for product preservation and that delivers clinically proven skin benefits.


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