36 HAIR CARE
treated with sebum (orange bar) than the clean one (blue bar) in Figure 6. The interpretation of the results
presented in Figure 6 is as follows: l The average cuticle angle is extracted from the specular angle of light reflection on hair fibre surface (blue bar on the left, represents clean hair).
l The cuticle angle visibility is significantly reduced (orange bar in the middle) after artificial sebum treatment due to cuticle gap filling.
l Cleansing shampoos remove these residues and restore the clean surfaces of cuticles at their angle of inclination (grey bar on the right). The results show that all three
shampoos are very efficient at cleaning sebum and restoring cuticle surfaces. Hence, the prototypes are as efficient as a commercially available micellar shampoo at cleansing.
Ex vivo testing: mildness to scalp One of the purchase drivers for micellar beauty products, including shampoos is the mildness of the formulations. In order to help evaluate such a claim, the irritancy potential of the prototypes has been tested on scalp biopsies. In order to evaluate barrier homeostasis
and reduction of surfactant stress to maintain a healthy scalp with the prototype micellar shampoos, the Interleukin-1α level on normal human ex vivo scalp biopsies was measured against a mild shampoo benchmark. The results are presented in Figure 7. Interleukin -1α is a precursor of the inflammatory response against an aggression. The lower the level, the less aggressive the test system is. Hence the placebo shows the lowest level (light grey bar). After 24 hour-treatment, both versions of micellar shampoo formulas were associated with a highly significant reduction of the interleukin -1α release
4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
Commercial micellar shampoo
Z-351-39E Z-351-44E
Figure 6: quantitative analysis of the specular reflection of hair tresses clean (blue bar), soiled with sebum (orange bar), cleaned with a shampoo (grey bar). The shampoo is identified in the diagram legend.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0
Figure 5: Specular reflection images of hair tresses. Clean hair (left) shows a much shaper reflection than a soiled tress (right).
60000 50000 40000 30000 20000 10000 0
non-conditioning shampoo
conditioning shampoo
Commercial
micellar water shampoo
Z351-39E gentle micellar cleanse & moisturize shampoo
Z351-44E Sulfate-
free micellar cleanse & moisturize shampoo
Figure 4: Wet combing performance of sulfate free formulations against a commercial benchmark. Conditioning performance on wet hair was measured using an Instron Bluehill 3. Three double bleached Caucasian hair tresses per sample were measured. Each hair tress weighted 3 grams for 25 cm of free length. 0.1 gram of shampoo per gram of hair was applied per tress.
(green and blue bars) compared to the benchmark (dark grey bar). A 40% reduction compared to benchmark was measured for formulation Z351-39e and a reduction of 61% for formulation Z351-44e the one sulfate-free one.
A novel approach to sulfate-free micellar shampoos. Modified polygalactomannans as the described cassia gum modified polymer (INCI: Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) delivers an excellent product performance in clear micellar silicone free shampoos. This approach works in sulfate containing shampoos as well as in sulfate- free shampoos. The prototype shampoos presented here are mild and deliver excellent conditioning as well as good
cleansing properties, conditioning and lather. Thanks to the newly developed
ClearhanceTM c polymer, Ashland proposes
micellar shampoo formulations which are transparent shampoos that gently wash away dirt, grit, pollution, product buildup and excess oils, safe for colour-treated hair and formulated without silicones to give fresh hair with superior clean feel without drying it out.
Acknowledgements The authors would like to thank Rachel Chabert from Ashland Sophia Antipolis, France for performing the experiment on scalp biopsies. The authors also thank the whole of the Ashland hair care team globally for their various contributions to this project.
n PBS n Benchmark nMicellar water shampoo Z351-39E nMicellar water shampoo sulfate free Z351-44E
569 *
-40% ***
344
222 -61%
*** 100
PC
Figure 7: Quantification of interleukin IL-1αrelease in extracellular medium in human scalp biopsies. interleukin IL-1αis a marker of inflammation. The comparison with a commercial benchmark (mild shampoo) is favourable to the micellar shampoo with ClearHanceTM c, especially the sulfate-free formulation.
September 2020
Hair cuticle angle (°)
Interleukin IL1-alpha release in extracellular medium (% of PBS)
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