SKIN PROTECTION 81
Protective effects of Mideka XimeniaSeed Oil
n Imran Moten - Kupanda Ltd, South Africa Theresa Callaghan - Callaghan Consulting International, Germany
Mideka Ximenia (MXSO) Seed Oil (INCI:Ximenia Americana (Ximenia) Seed Oil) originates from many parts of Africa as well as being found in other parts of the world. Commonly known as ‘wild plum’ or ‘sour plum,’ Ximenia americana L. (Fig 1) is a small sprawling tree bearing fruits which are lemon-yellow, slightly speckled, and having an odour of almonds. It is a member of the Olacaceae family (which also includes the sandalwoods), of which there are a number of known species including Ximenia caffra Sond.1 The fruits and seeds of Ximenia
americana are known for a variety of traditional uses. Fruits, although a little sour, can be eaten raw and are used to make preserves and drinks. The seed oil, which has a honey-like consistency, is extracted from the kernel and used in various cosmetic applications, being ideal for soap manufacture and emollient products. It has been used traditionally as a cosmetic to anoint the body and as a cure for chapped and dry feet.2,3
The yellowish wood of X.
americana is scented and resembles that of sandalwood.
Unique lipid content The lipid composition of MXSO is unique in that it contains, as with other Olacaceae specific to this family, a fatty acid profile which is predominantly unsaturated (>92%) and with a high oleic acid content
(~60%) (Table 1). Variances in the amounts of fatty acids
are subject to seasonal changes and method of extraction.4
Moreover, the
seeds, as with other ximenia species contain unique long chain fatty acids (Fig 2 ): ximenynic acid, ximenic acid (17-Z- hexacosenoic acid) and ximenixic acid (octacosenic acid). Ximenic (Cerotic) acid, or 17-Z-hexacosanoic acid, is a 26-carbon long-chain saturated fatty acid. It is also commonly found in beeswax and carnauba wax. Ximenynic acid, or trans-11- octadecen-9-ynoic acid5, 5a
is an 18-carbon
long-chain acetylenic fatty acid of formula C18H30O, and ximenixic acid, or octacosenoic acid (montanic acid) is a waxy 28-carbon long-chain long chain fatty acid, C28H56O2. Of particular interest is the ximenynic acid content, which is also predominant in all of the sandalwoods, and like X. americana, typical of the Olacaceae.6, 6a Recent reports have shown that
X. americana seeds are an important source of antioxidants, and often have greater antioxidant activity than edible fruit portion itself.7-10
Therefore, potential
uses in pharmaceutical, cosmetic and nutritional industries would be due to the beneficial property of free radical neutralisation. The seeds of X. americana are particularly rich in vitamin C (72.23 ± 6.99 mg/100g) and polyphenols (2245.69
± 287.58 mg/100g) and flavanoids (15.26 ± 2.69 mg/100g).10 Xymeninic acid has been reported to
have anti-inflammatory activity, and has been shown to inhibit the expression of cycloxygenase-1 (COX-1) a key enzyme in the inflammatory pathway.11
Furthermore
xymeninic acid has also been shown to suppress the expression of vascular endothelial growth factor genes VEGF-B and VEGF-C (12), leading to the development of products supporting venous applications.12a Based on these reports we undertook a
preliminary investigation to evaluate a further potential of MXSO seed oil, to protect against collagen degradation via MMP-1 expression, as well as oxidative stress (Nrf2 activation) utilising an ex vivo human skin explant pollutant stressor model.
Tissue matrix degradation The skin is the main barrier that protects us against a variety of environmental insults, be they physico-chemical or biochemical. Such attacks on the skin, combined with internal factors, are responsible for the process of cutaneous ageing. As free radicals, reactive oxygen species formation (ROS) are the instigators of the skin ageing process and trigger a breakdown in the skin tissue matrix support system, especially collagen, as well as being a prime
Figure 1: The fruit, seeds and Mideka Ximenia Seed Oil (source: Kupanda). September 2020 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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