WAXES & BUTTERS 63
removal. The inclusion of petrolatum and dimethicone also resulted in directionally significantly (p<0.10) less erythema than the vehicle 24 hours after patch removal and statistically significantly (p<0.05) less erythema than the vehicle 48 hours after patch removal.
Reducing sensitivity to known sensitisers A blend of FE20, FE30, and FE60 (26%) and K-100 (5%) were evaluated compared to a blend of petrolatum (30%) and dimethicone (1%) within an ointment formulation for mitigation of skin reactions due to two known sensitisers [i.e. nickel (II) sulfate heptahydrate and urushiol] as compared to the vehicle (see Table 1). One application of each ointment test article was made to the forearms of male and female subjects (n=5 or n=9) that were confirmed to be sensitive (i.e. causes redness, stinging, burning, and/or itching) to nickel or urushiol (i.e. poison ivy), respectively. Test sites were then exposed to nickel or urushiol under occlusion for 48 or four hours, respectively, using a Finn Chamber®
.11 Erythema measurements
using the Mexameter MX 18 (in triplicate) and visual grading [on a scale of 0 - 3 (0 = none, 1 = mild, 2 = moderate, 3 = severe)] were taken at baseline, and 30 minutes and 48 hours post-patch removal. The results appear in Figures 5 and 6. The data in Figure 5 show that the
inclusion of FE20, FE30, and FE60 and K-100 reduced nickel induced erythema (Mexameter) up to 49% compared to the ointment containing petrolatum and dimethicone (p<0.10), and also resulted in directionally significantly (p<0.10) less erythema (Mexameter) than the vehicle at both evaluation time points. There were no statistically significant differences in visual scores. For urushiol induced erythema (Fig 6),
the inclusion of FE20, FE30, and FE60 and K-100 reduced erythema (Mexameter) by 78% compared to the vehicle ointment 30 minutes after patch removal (p<0.10), and also resulted in directionally significantly (p<0.10) less erythema (visual) than the vehicle ointment and the ointment containing petrolatum and dimethicone 30 minutes after patch removal. The inclusion of petrolatum and dimethicone also resulted in statistically significantly (p<0.05) less erythema (visual) than the vehicle 30 minutes after patch removal.
Conclusion Jojoba esters and hydrolysed jojoba esters have many beneficial skin barrier protection and skin barrier recovery capabilities. Studies have shown specific benefits of Floraesters 20, 30, and 60, and Floraesters K-100 Jojoba when incorporated into
September 2020
40% 35% 30% 25% 20% 15% 10% 5% 0%
n A Floraesters n B Petrolatum/Dimethicone n C Vehicle C
C C B C B A 0.5 30 min Mexameter Figure 5: Reduced erythema with Floraesters (Nickel).
40% 35% 30% 25% 20% 15% 10% 5% 0%
n A Floraesters n B Petrolatum/Dimethicone n C Vehicle C
B C 0.8 C B A B B A 30 min Mexameter Figure 6: Reduced erythema with Floraesters (Urushiol).
ointments, diaper rash creams, anti-itch treatments, sunscreens, and other personal care and OTC category products. Similar to jojoba oil, Floraesters resist oxidation better than most natural ingredients, making them suitable for products requiring two to three year expiration dates. Floraesters 20, 30, and 60 also offer the flexibility of product texture and feel with one INCI name (i.e. jojoba esters), and many of their properties are attributed to their occlusive nature. Previous studies have also demonstrated that Floraesters 20, 30, and 60 and Floraesters K-100 Jojoba can also increase skin hydration, increase skin smoothness, and improve consumer perception of finished products, all while providing a non- greasy emollience.2,3
The results of all of
these studies show why Floraesters are a great tool to build stable, functional finished product applications that maintain healthy skin.
PC
References 1 Yaron A. Metabolism and physiological effects
of jojoba oil. In Wisniak J, editor. The chemistry and technology of jojoba oil. Champagne, IL: American Oil Chemists’ Society Press; 1987. p. 251-65.
2 Oliphant T, Harper R. Functionality with Jojoba-Derived Ingredients – Increased Skin Hydration and Consumer Preference with Floraesters. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Technology Showcase. December 2010. Poster.
3 Oliphant T, Harper R. Skin Barrier Protection with Jojoba Esters. American Academy of Dermatology 71st Annual Meeting. March 2013. Poster.
4 Unpublished data. Final report available upon request.
5 This study was conducted by INOVAPOTEK, Pharmaceutical Research and Development Lda. (Porto, Portugal).
6 Urban Dust, Standard Reference Material® 1649b, National Institute of Standards and Technology, was purchased from Sigma-Aldrich (St. Louis, MO).
7 Hill Top Chamber® is a registered trademark of Hill Top Research, Inc. (Cincinnati, OH).
8 Tewameter® TM 300 is a product of Courage + Khazaka (Köln, Germany).
9 Quinn T and Harper R. Benefits of Jojoba- Derived Waxes and Butters. Personal Care Europe. 2019; 13 (3):41-43.
10 Mexameter®MX 18 is a product of Courage + Khazaka (Köln, Germany).
11 Finn Chamber® is a registered trademark of Allerderm Laboratories, Inc. (Phoenix, AZ).
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE 48hr C A A 30 min Visual 48hr 0.2 0.0 0.4 0.6 48hr 30 min Visual 48hr 0.0 A B 1.5 A A 1.0 B 2.5 2.0
1.0
Erythema Scores increasing erythema
Erythema Scores increasing erythema
% Change in Erythema (relative to baseline)
increasing erythema
% Change in Erythema (relative to baseline)
increasing erythema
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