WAXES & BUTTERS 61
Skin protection with jojoba esters
n Tiffany Quinn MS, Robert A Harper PhD – Floratech, US Floraesters®
20, 30, and 60, [INCI: Jojoba Esters] and Floraesters K-100® Jojoba [INCI:
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Water (Aqua)] are derived from jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis), and have been used in cosmetic and personal care products for more than 30 years. Jojoba oil is a liquid wax ester, rather than a triglyceride oil like all other botanical oils, and it possesses unique properties which can often be seen in its derivatives. Jojoba oil has been used in folk remedies to treat wounds, sunburn, chafed skin, and hair loss,1
and is a well-known ingredient that
has been included in skin and hair care products for decades. Floraesters 20, 30, and 60 are
interesterified (not partially-hydrogenated) jojoba oil and jojoba wax, and Floraesters K-100 Jojoba is hydrolysed jojoba oil. Similar to jojoba oil, Floraesters also impart multiple benefits to the skin such as hydration, barrier repair, and barrier protection.2,3
Due to their derivation from a
wax ester, the use of jojoba esters and hydrolysed jojoba esters also allow for ‘oil- free’ claims. Floraesters 20, 30, and 60 (now referred to as ‘FE20’, ‘FE30’, ‘FE60’) range from a soft to firm paste, are occlusive in nature, and can be added to emulsion systems to provide body and structure. Floraesters K-100 Jojoba (now referred to as ‘K-100’) is a viscous gel that is utilised to provide water, wear, and transfer resistance to finished formulas. It also traps small molecules like glycerin and glycolic acid at the skin’s surface,4
which allows these
molecules to function longer. This research will discuss how Floraesters can also provide skin barrier protection from a variety of different pollutants, irritants, and sensitisers when used in skin care products. All studies were double-blind, randomised,
and carried out under controlled temperature and humidity conditions.
Protection from skin barrier disruptors Antipollution properties FE30 and K-100 were evaluated for antipollution properties at 4% and 2%,
September 2020 60% 20% 30%
n A Vehicle n B Vehicle + 4% Floraesters 30 n C Vehicle + 2% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba
30% A B 25% C 90% B 120%
n A Vehicle n B Vehicle + 4% Floraesters 30 n C Vehicle + 2% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba
150% A C
15%
Figure 1: Reduced skin surface lipid oxidation with Floraesters.
respectively, in a very simple o/w emulsion (4.00% Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate, 3.00% Cetyl Alcohol, 2.00% Glycerin, 0.70% preservative, 0.20% Xanthan Gum, 0.03% Disodium EDTA, and q.s. Water) compared to a vehicle formula. For the first study,5
twice daily
(AM and PM) applications of each test article were made to the backs of male and female subjects (n=22) for a total of five applications. Test sites were then exposed to pollution (i.e. tobacco smoke) for 20 minutes. Malondialdehyde (MDA) concentration evaluations were made at baseline and post pollution exposure using gas chromatography - mass spectrometry. MDA was used as an indicator of skin lipid oxidation due to pollution. The results appear in Figure 1. The data in Figure 1 show that the
inclusion of 4% FE30 or 2% K-100 resulted in the production of up to 15% less MDA than the vehicle. There was no statistical significance between test articles with and without Floraesters.
0% Figure 2: Urban Dust Pollution Protection.
using the same formulas using Urban Dust (i.e. atmospheric particulates)6
An additional study was carried out as the
pollutant to confirm the results seen in the previous study. Once daily applications of each test article were made to the volar forearms of male and female subjects (n=37) for a total of three applications. Following each test article application, the test sites were exposed to pollution (Urban Dust) under occlusion for 24 hours using a 19mm Hill Top®
Chambers7 with Webril® (in duplicate) at baseline and .
Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) evaluations were made using a Tewameter® TM 3008
following final patch removal. The results appear in Figure 2. The data in Figure 2 show that the
inclusion of 4% FE30 or 2% K-100 resulted in up to 40% less of an increase in TEWL than the vehicle (p<0.01), demonstrating a protective effect from a pollutant, thereby reducing damage to the skin barrier.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Percent Change in MDA Concentration increasing skin lipid oxidation
Percent Change in TEWL from Baseline increasing skin barrier disruption
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