52 EYE AREA CARE Incorporation of (3 H) Glucosamine (cpm) Incorporation of [3H] Glucosamine (cpm) 140 175 183 190 158 Incorporation of [3 H] Glucosamine (cpm) 200 210 220
Incorporation of [3H] Glucosamine (cpm) 289
275 214 303
Control
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
Peri-membran proteoglycans At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the peri-membran proteoglycans rate increases by 25%, 31% and 36% respectively.
Figure 2: Incorporation of glucosamine. Concentration of Hydroxyproline (mg/L)
3.11 3.78 4 4.21 30.7
Control
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
Transmembran proteoglycans At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the transmembran proteoglycans rate increases by 27%, 33% and 39% respectively.
Elastin (µg/mg of proteins) 38.7 40.5 42.9
Control
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
Matricial proteoglycans At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the Matricial proteoglycans rate increases by 29%, 35% and 42% respectively.
Incorporation of [3 560 700
H] Glucosamine (cpm) 744
785
Control
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
Collagens At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the collagens rate increases by 22%, 29% and 35% respectively.
Figure 3: Study of collagen, elastin and GAG.
women aged 45 to 65 years, with circles, puffiness and crow’s feet on the area around the eyes. Measurement of circles, wrinkles and puffiness was conducted by a standardised visual scoring using an Evalux bench (Orion concept) with calibrated lighting (leds – 6000°K). An emulsion was created with 0.5% plant complex (dispersion form, 20% cells).
Results At a concentration of 0.5%, a general improvement in the three major alterations that occur in the area around the eyes in 30 days has been demonstrated. 76% of women reported that circles were less coloured; 61% of women reported that puffiness was reduced; 52% of women reported that crow’s feet were reduced. General increase in skin radiance of 23%
was observed while there was a decrease in circles of 16%. Puffiness and fine lines decreased by 13% and 11% respectively (Fig 1).
(3 H)-H2 O (cpm): T0+15min 7462 5978 5007 7700 7950 6423 6720 7000
In vitro testing results Rediscover the original shape of the area around the eyes In the dermis, the extra cellular matrix (ECM) consists of different non cellular components, and provides not only essential physical scaffolding for the cellular constituents but also initiates crucial biochemical and biomechanical cues that are required for tissue morphogenesis, differentiation and homeostasis. It consists of water, polysaccharides and proteins; the two main classes of macromolecules are proteoglycans and fibrous proteins such as collagens, elastins, fibronectins and laminins synthesised by fibroblasts, the dermis cells. In fact, the ECM is a highly dynamic structure that is constantly being remodelled, either enzymatically or non- enzymatically. The ECM generates the biochemical and
mechanical properties of skin, such as its tensile and compressive strength, elasticity, and also contributes to its protection by a
(3 H)-H2 O (cpm): T0+30min
buffering action that maintains extracellular homeostasis and water retention. With age, the synthesis of the different
macromolecules made by fibroblasts decreases, the biochemical cues in the ECM and its properties are therefore modified.
Studies of 5 components of the ECM: proteoglycans, collagen, elastin, GAGs and MMP3 These various studies of the components of the ECM run by Naolys were carried out on fibroblast culture. Naolys carried out a very delicate study
of the synthesis of the 3 types of proteoglycans made by fibroblasts. Proteoglycans are made of a combination of a protein and a GAG. As they consist of long O-linked
glycosylated chains, they are like ‘water traps’. They have buffering, hydration, binding and resistance properties. Collagen is the most abundant fibrous
protein within the interstitial ECM and constitutes the main structural element of the ECM; collagens provide tensile strength, regulate cell adhesion, support chemotaxis and migration, and direct tissue development. Elastin is another fibrous protein and the
Control
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
Control
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, increases of water retention in the dehydrated epidermis at T0+15min respectively by 25%, 29% and 33%, and at 70+30min respectively by 28%, 34% and 40% compared to non treated controls.
Figure 4: Study of static water – epidermis. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
principal structural component of the elastic fibres in the ECM. GAGs (glycosaminoglycans) are important acids that have very strong water retention capacities. There are several types of GAGs, including hyaluronic acid. MMP3 (or Stromelysin-1) is an enzyme in
September 2020
Control
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
Elastin At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the elastin rate increases by 26%, 32% and 40% respectively.
Control
IE(PT+TMG) (0.5%)
IE(PT+TMG) (1%)
IE(PT+TMG) (2.5%)
GAG At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, the glycosaminoglycans rate increases by 25%, 33% and 40% respectively.
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
