26 EYE AREA CARE
Ingredients focus: eye area care solutions
n Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
We have seen in recent years some exciting new ingredients that aim to improve the appearance of the eye area. This delicate area of the body can transform a person’s look, as it is in such a prominent position. Added to this, the colouration changes around the eyes can be significant leading to an entirely altered visual aspect. At a time when considerably more
people across Europe are wearing masks to limit the spread of COVID-19, attention is drawn towards the eye area and as a result the desire to improve its skin condition. New ingredients are finding ways to
reduce the appearance of wrinkles, eye bags and dark circles, to restore a more youthful and homogenous look. Following is a selection of eye area care ingredients from leading suppliers.
Eye area care ingredients Ashland Nightessence biofunctional enhances the naturally occurring nocturnal process that helps skin boost molecules such as timezyme and melatonin. Building on the current beauty sleep trend, this new biofunctional is tailored to optimise skin’s nighttime needs. It helps restore it overnight, so skin looks rested, renewed and illuminated by morning. The new lavender flower extract has
been clinically tested in a cream at 1% on volunteers showing a rested, renewed and illuminated skin with fewer dark circles by morning. Eyedeline marine ingredient from
Lipotec is a biotechnological active that has been developed to provide all the desirable benefits for the eye contour area. Vascular permeability is diminished, preventing the excessive accumulation of liquids around the eyes that is responsible for puffiness. In addition, the ingredient reduces the levels of bilirubin, the coloured by-product of leaked blood that contributes to dark circles. On the other hand, the new active ingredient enhances the matrix support proteins elastin and collagen and protects from glycation, leading to a reinforcement of the skin to prevent sagginess and wrinkles. The in vivo efficacy of the
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ingredient has been proven by different studies, showing decreased coloration under the eyes, diminished volume of eyebags and a smoothing of crow’s feet wrinkles. It is a complete care of eye contour that
combats the three signs of tiredness and ageing typical of this delicate skin area: dark circles, eyebags and wrinkles. Biotechnologically-obtained, it reduces
fluid extravasation while increases the degradation of bilirubin, promotes collagen I and elastin production and inhibits the formation of advanced glycation end products. After 14 days of treatment the reduction
of eyebags volume was notable, reaching a value of -8.2% at the end of the treatment (28 days, 4%) leading to a younger looking skin. Also from Lipotec, Eyeseryl peptide
helps improve the overall appearance of the eye contour by minimising the presence of eyebags and dark circles and by reducing skin damage of this delicate area. The ability of the peptide to minimise
the eyebags volume was recently assessed in a new study performed on male volunteers between 30-65 years old with
prominent eyebags that applied a cream containing 1% Eyeseryl peptide solution on one eye contour and a placebo cream on the other, twice a day for 28 days. Under- eye puffiness volume significantly decreased up to 29.7% after 28 days, and the overall appearance of the eye contour visibly improved as observed through digital photographs. N. benthamiana is a historical plant-
based model system for the transient expression of high purity proteins in a non- GM system. As opposed to recombinant production by Gram(-) bacteria which may contain endotoxins, synthesis of proteins in plants helps to obtain safe plant-based biotechnological ingredients with proper modifications and high activity. Skin around the eyes is 1/10 thinner and
is more exposed to external aggressors and free radicals due to UV radiation or pollutants that can affect protein structure and functions. One of the most general indicators of oxidative damage is protein carbonylation and the main proteolytic system involved in the removal of damaged proteins is the Ubiquitin Proteasome System (UPS). Scelleye from Lipotrue contains plant-
Insulin-like Growth Factor-1 (plant-IGF1), a protein able to restore the activity of the skin basal layers, as well as to activate the proteasome and decrease carbonylation, for an effective clearance of damaged proteins. In a previous issue of Personal Care,
Scelleye was shown to stimulate proteasome activity, helping to clear and protect the skin from the accumulation of cell damaged proteins due to free radicals that can be caused by radiation, pollution or internal metabolism. Furthermore, Scelleye helped to soothe dark circles and regenerate and redensify the skin, both in vivo and ex vivo, which translated to a notable reduction in depth, volume and overall crow’s feet in vivo. Scelleye was shown to be a key
multifunctional detoxifying ingredient for the development of future eye contour cosmetics covering multiple eye concerns.
September 2020
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