SKIN CARE 41
to get long-term anti-ageing on mature skins;
l PrincipHYAL Cube3: a wide spectrum of molecular weight studied to get short- term lifting effect (just 30 min), with a proved efficacy of carrier for both lipo- and water-soluble ingredients; These actives, based on determined
spectrums of molecular weight (instead of just one peak), are obtained through the control of degradation parameters during the biofermentation production process. Selected from a screening of numerous in vivo data, they target a precise cosmetic performance, with surprisingly positive results. PrincipHYAL line is made of ingredients
with selected ranges of different molecular weights, targeting the activation of particular cell answers. The line gives the chance of a multi-shade signal, more efficient than a simple “on/off” stimulus. The signals arriving to cells are multiple and contradictory, but their integration allows fine-tuned physiological answers. A multi-shade signal allows a fine-tuned answer, more efficient than an “all or nothing” signal.
Evidence of efficacy Different activities performed by PrincipHYAL ingredients have been evaluated by in vitro and in vivo clinical tests done in an external and independent laboratory with Certified Quality Management System UNI EN ISO 9001:2008 and recognised as a Testing Facility operating in GLP (Good Laboratory Practices – Dir 2004/9/EC and 2004/10/EC) by the Italian Ministry of Health. Here is a summary of obtained results
with several benefits: l Wound Healing: PrincipHYAL Aurora clearly marks a stimulating effect on wound healing of endothelial cells in culture after 24h. Wound widths are compared to untreated negative control (see Fig 1).
l Moisturisation: 0.25% PrincipHYAL Signal-10 statistically induces a constant improvement of moisturisation versus medium m.w. hyaluronate (+10.9% after 30 min) (see Fig 2).
l Short Term Lifting Effect: 0.5% PrincipHYAL Cube3 significantly diminishes wrinkles number versus placebo (down to 6.81% and 4.53% in 30 and 120 minutes) (see Fig 3).
l Long-Term Lifting Effect: 0.5% PrincipHYAL Difference formulated at diminishes wrinkle volume versus placebo (-4.4% and -12.0% after 15 and 60 days respectively) (see Fig 4).
Conclusion It becomes clearer every day that what naturally occurs in human skin is far from
September 2020
Figure 4: 3D visual representation based on integral mathematics manipulation: on 20 women, age 30 to 50. Material: Visioscan. Image analysis of parameters on wrinkle volume at D0 before product application, 15, 30 and 60 days (D15, D30 and D60) after application.
the external chemical view of simply producing a bio-polymer such as HA for cosmetic use. Skin needs what skin uses, thus we need to rethink the approach to a skin beauty routine. Thanks to its know-how on bio- fermentation (HA Tech 2.0®
2003; (13): 105R
2 Turley EA, Noble PW, Bourguignon LYW. Signaling Properties of Hyaluronan Receptors, J. Biol. Chem. 2002; (277): 4589.
), Roelmi HPC is
able to regulate the fermentation process in order to reproduce a multiple peak spectrum similar to the natural condition of the skin. This is a fine tuning of the standard production steps in order to modulate the efficacy as wanted. The selection of PrincipHYAL ingredients is the result of a number of screenings on different widely obtained ranges wider or not, in order to check their activity on the skin. The four selected ingredients (Signal- 10, Aurora, Cube3 and Difference) have had the best performances compared to the other ranges. Their production has been standardised and it is checked at every batch thanks to the efficacy control, an in vitro test showing that the selected batch works as expected. Roelmi HPC focuses on the ingredients’
biological activity, the real uniqueness of an active ingredient, shown at every batch as a point of the CoA.
PC
References 1 Stern R. Devising a pathway for hyaluronan
catabolism: Are we there yet? Glycobiology
3 Underhill CB, Toole BP. Binding of hyaluronate to the surface of cultured cells, J. Cell Biol. 1979; (82): 475.
4 Turley EA. The control of adrenocortical cytodifferentiation by extracellular matrix, Differentiation1980; (17): 93.
5 Borland G, Ross JA, Guy K. Forms and functions of CD44, Immunology 1998; (93): 139.
6 Wolny PM, Banerji S, Gounou C, et al. Analysis of CD44-hyaluronan interactions in an artificial membrane system: insights into the distinct binding properties of high and low molecular weight hyaluronan, J. Biol. Chem. 2010; 285 (39): 30170.
7 Stern R et al. Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system, Eur. J. Cell. Biol. 2006; (85): 699.
8 Kothapalli D, Zhao L, Hawthorne EA, et al. J. Cell Biol. (2007 Hyaluronan and CD44 antagonize mitogen-dependent cyclin D1 expression in mesenchymal cells”; (176): 535.
9 Kothapalli D, Flowers J, Xu T, Puré E, Assoian RK. Differential Activation of ERK and Rac Mediates the Proliferative and Anti- proliferative Effects of Hyaluronan and CD4, J. Biol. Chem. 2008, 283 (46): 31823.
10 Pure E, Assoian RK. Rheostatic signaling by CD44 and hyaluronan, Cell Signal. 2009; 21(5): 651.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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