44 NATURALS


Figure 1: Basic scheme of the patented Oléo-éco-extraction process.


ingredients to deliver multiple benefits. In a fast-paced market such as the cosmetic industry, consumers’ evolving needs and perceptions are one of the leading drivers to new product development concepts. Multifunctional ingredients offer the


convenience of using fewer materials yet meeting consumers’ demand for high- performing products. This is the rationale behind the creation of the first “active emollient” in the market. Sensolene Light ET, (now referred to as ‘the active emollient’), contrary to what its INCI name suggests, is not merely a physical blend of two ingredients. By utilizing our patented Oléo-éco-extraction process, it is in fact an extract of Olive Leaf in Ethyl Olivate (Fig 1).


45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0


Spreadability Absorption n Sensolene® Silky skin Light ET n Dimethicone 2 cSt n Dimethicone 5 cSt Figure 2: Sensorial descriptors of Ethyl Olivate, Olea Europea (Olive) Leaf Extract compared to dimethicone (2 and 5 cSt). PERSONAL CARE EUROPE September 2020 The use of an ester derived from olive oil


as the extraction carrier, i.e. ethyl olivate, offers significant advantages from a skin- feel point of view. Using several sensorial descriptors, i.e., spreadability, absorption and ‘silky’ effect, a trained panel evaluated a topical product containing 5% of the active emollient. They then compared the product to those generated by the application of the same cream using 5% of dimethicone 2 cSt on one side and 5% of dimethicone 5 cSt on the other. Results can be seen in the plot shown in Figure 2. No statistically significant difference on


any of the parameters tested between any samples (p> 0,05) was observed, thus indicating that the active emollient has a


very favorable sensorial profile which can be effectively employed to develop esthetically pleasing cosmetic products. Figure 3, a plot of the Spreadability


Number VS Brookfield Viscosity, shows us that the active emollient can also be grouped with those emollients generally classified as “light” and “fast absorbing.” Another major advantage offered by the


active emollient is the hydrating power it imparts to products that use it as an emollient. In another test, cosmetic creams were formulated with 5% of the active emollient or 5% of another emollient chosen amongst cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone 1.5 cSt, dimethicone 2 cSt, dimethicone 5 cSt and dimethicone 50 cSt.


Rank Sum


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