38 SKIN CARE
Full-spectrum hyaluronans: via fine-tuning cell physiology
n Andrea Maltagliati, Stefania Zanzottera – Roelmi HPC, Italy
Hyaluronan (HA) is a polymer, part of glycosaminoglycans (GAG) along with heparan sulfate or chondroitin sulfate. It is a linear, flexible high molecular mass polysaccharide that consists of the repetition of a disaccharide monomer constituted of D-glucuronic acid and N- acetyl-D-glucosamine. The repetition of the basal unit (usually from 2,000 to 25,000 times) leads to a component with a molecular weight of at least 1,000 kDa that can extend its length from 2 to 25µm. This is a very important component of our skin. Present in the epidermis, it is mainly contained in the dermis, and both compartments account for around 50% of the total body HA. The rest can be found in particular in the extra-cellular matrix of connective tissues. It is estimated that a 70 kg individual presents about 15g of HA1 in the whole body, of which a third is renewed every day. Thus, the half-life of HA found in our skin is about 1 day. The molecular properties of HA confer
on it distinct functions. The main one is its contribution to tissue homeostasis as a result of its biophysical properties. Being the only non-sulfated GAG, and thanks to its important size, HA forms a gel matrix able to bind great amounts of water. It forms a stiffened and expanded random coil with strong hydrogen bonds between adjacent sugar units, like a spongy grid of support upon which the superficial epidermis relies. HA can also interact with link-proteins and hyaladherins (non- covalently bound with a number of HA- binding proteins), adding to its importance in the structural integrity of extra- and pericellular matrices. Last, but not least, HA also interacts with cell surface receptors such as RHAMM or CD44. From a homeostasis state, a
degradation in low molecular weight hyaluronan (LMW HA) reduces the anti- mitogenic effect of CD44 due to the active quiescence of HMW HA. This simultaneously increases the pro- mitogenic effect of LMW. The combination in the regulation of these two
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Abstract
The present paper aims to demonstrate the concept of standard Sodium Hyaluronate (SH) and its acidic form (HA). The basic notion about Sodium Hyaluronate is that different molecular weights can stimulate different singular effects on cells, leading to opposite physiological performances. 2.0 Full Spectrum Hyaluronans provides an ‘ecological’ beauty routine for skin
because it reproduces human physiological requirements by focusing on a wide spectrum, which mediates a specific cellular answer through the activation of different cell receptors and the fine-tuned effect of skin regeneration processes in a physiological-like stimulation.
Without Aurora With Aurora 3mg/ml
Layer is divided
Layer is reunified
Figure 1: In vitro study: Qualitative and quantitative evaluation of wound closing efficacy on an artificial wound model, by causing an artificial wound all along a confluent cell monolayer of mouse endothelial cerebral cells. Evaluation at 24 hours after the incubation of the cells with different concentration (0,03; 0,3 and 3 mg/ml). The measured endpoint (wound width) takes in consideration the effect on determining cell proliferation and migration of the test system cells all along the artificial wound.
contradictory effects provides a rheostatic control, much more sensitive and efficient than a simple “on/off” switch for mitogen control. This regulatory mechanism probably allows the cell to react in a more sensitive, fine-tuned manner, therefore opening a much more subtle range of physiological responses.
Varying forms of a molecule
characterised with the same INCI name could lead to opposite physiological performances. For instance, a LMW HA is known to stimulate inflammatory mediators, while a high molecular weight hyaluronan (HMW HA) tends to the opposite physiological reaction. In such
September 2020
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