HAIR CARE 33
Nature-derived silicone and sulfate-free clear shampoo
n Tuttu Nuutinen, Eric-Jan de Feij, Michael Franzke, Coralie Alonso, Bert Kroon – Ashland Nederland BV, The Netherlands Germain Puccetti – Ashland Specialty Ingredients, US
Micellar shampoos are increasingly popular thanks to their consumer friendly ingredients and their message on mildness for both scalp and hair. Many consumers are paying closer
attention to what they use on their hair and skin in terms of ingredients. Therefore, personal care brands need to focus on origin of the functional ingredients and emphasise product benefits. Emerging in this new market are micellar beauty products. Micellar shampoos are gaining popularity globally thanks to their message on mildness, reinforced by the clarity of the product. A typical formulation is usually transparent or translucent, with a micellar oil complex to clean and moisturise hair, and surfactants for efficient cleansing and no silicones. As sulfate-free surfactants are generally milder than for example SLES (sodium lauryl ethyl sulfate) the sub- segment of sulfate free micellar shampoos is developing rapidly. ClearhanceTM c polymer (INCI: Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) is a cassia derivative polymer specially developed by Ashland for transparent and conditioning formulations which makes it especially suitable for micellar shampoos, with or without sulfate-based surfactants.
Polysaccharides such as cationic
cellulose materials and cationic galactomannans have a very long history as conditioning ingredients in shampoos and body washes. With the introduction of the first two-in-one shampoo – the poly galactomannans- and here especially the guar-based materials became popular. Their major benefit, beside good wet conditioning properties, are their ability to foster (via coacervate formation) deposition of benefit agents like silicone oils or anti- dandruff ingredients and more and more natural oils. Guar polymers have a rather rigid
backbone due to their ratio of galactose to mannose which infer some steric hindrance. There is a broad range of polygalactomannans with different galactose to mannose ratios, like Guar Gum, Tara Gum, Locust Bean Gum or Cassia Gum. In the polygalactomanan family, the Cassia gum presents a more flexible backbone in line with a lower galactose to mannose ratio and a possibility for higher cationic degree of substitution than some guars. Moreover, the cationically modified Cassia also leads to a transparent material suitable for the ever-growing market of transparent shampoos, cleansing
n ClearHance C n HP Guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride n Guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride n Polyquaternium-10
100 98 96 94 92 90 88 86 84 82 80 78 76 74
Figure 1: Clarity of four shampoo formulations containing four different deposition polymers measured by light transmittance. The formulations contain12% SLES, 2% CAPB,0.2% deposition polymer (see figure legend for the polymer), 2% NaCl,0.5% Optiphen™ preservative. The pH is adjusted to 4.8-5.2.
September 2020
products and therefore micellar shampoos. The novel shampoo formulations
containing Clearhance c (INCI: Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride), were first tested for transparency and lathering. Both proved sufficient. Technical assessments of the newly developed Clearhance c showed a good to superior performance in wet and dry combing compared to cationic guars for example. The cleansing efficacy was demonstrated using a specular reflection method which gives a quantitative measure of the sebum residues on hair. The Ashland micellar conditioning shampoo was also successfully tested for mildness on scalp biopsies.
A newly developed cationically- modified Cassia Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is a cationically modified cassia gum-based polymer. The degree of substitution was optimised on three criteria: the transparency, the conditioning performance and the naturality of the polymer. The natural index calculated according to ISO16128:2-2017 is greater than 60%, therefore the polymer can be considered nature derived. Micellar cleansers, including micellar
shampoos are almost exclusively transparent to suggest the mildness of the product, thus a key development goal for this ingredient was the compatibility with clear or transparent cleansing systems. Turbidity measurements comparing the Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride polymer with other widely used technologies such as guars when formulated in a simple shampoo base, is presented in Figure 1. The deposition polymers were dosed at 0.2% in a typical SLES: CAPB shampoo chassis. It shows the rather good performance of the cassia derivative. This makes this polymer appropriate for a large palette of formulations, turbid or clear, whether the formulation is based on a surfactant chassis with or without sulfate. Micellar shampoos are expected to
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Clarity (%T, 600nm)
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