40 SKIN CARE
pathogen bacteria can also cut their way through with hyaluronidases, therefore adding to the presence of LMW HA. These fragments revealed multiple pro- inflammatory potentials, which were not observed for HMW HA. Moreover, HMW HA can block the pro-inflammatory effects of LMW HA, opposing here an active way to maintain homeostasis (a “sound of silence”), when many scientists thought HMW HA was inert. The opposing cell cycle effects of HMW and LMW result from differential regulation of CD44-regulated signalling pathways to cyclin D1,8,9
and
emphasise how a subtle change of composition in the cell micro-environment (extra cellular matrix) can lead to adverse reactions, LMW HA reacting in a complete opposite manner of HMW HA.7,8 A very interesting hypothesis of
mechanism of action suggests that HMW would inhibit cell proliferation by antagonising mitogen-dependent cyclin D1 expression by stimulating merlin dephosphorylation, CD44-merlin association and CD44-ERM protein dissociation. This would lead to a growth- inhibitory state where HMW actively installs a state of quiescence. On the opposite, LMW binding to CD44 would lead to hyper-phosphorylation of merlin and CD44-ERM protein association10
This
would eliminate the inhibitory effect of CD44-merlin couple on Rac activation (a signalling pathway identified in many cell reactions). The CD44-merlin couple would therefore act like a molecular switch.
Full spectrum technology The industrial production of cosmetic hyaluronan has been going under many changes in the past decades, from the animal extraction of rooster combs to the supervised biofermentation by bacteria such as Streptococcus or Bacillus species. The discovery of this polymer has not given immediate access to its synthesis, and the only way to obtain it for years had been from animal origin, with uneven results with regard to the molecular weight and its statistical repartition around a medium peak value. On the contrary, the control of biotechnological production parameters obtains a specific and quite narrow range of molecular weight, centered on medium values as low as 20 kDa, and up to 3 000 kDa and even more. Today’s technologies reach smaller components (oligomer HA) or bigger ones (cross-linked HA). Therefore, what was not considered as important just a few years ago became a crucial parameter in the recent identification of a sodium hyaluronate: its molecular weight. And this, even if the analytical methods are still not consistent with a complete and precise identification of all molecule lengths
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Figure 3: 3D visual representation based on integral mathematics manipulation: on 10 women, age 30 to 50. Material: Visioscan. Image analysis of parameters on wrinkle volume at T0 before product application, 30, 120 and 240 minutes (T0.5, T2 and T4) after applications.
potentially present in the same batch. Full Spectrum hyaluronans are
biotechnological ingredients that reproduce a specific spectrum of molecular weight, with a targeted focus on skins at a particular physiological step (homeostasis or stress). Tested stressed skins react in a more adapted manner, thanks to an evolutionary interaction between matrix hyaluronans and their cell receptor CD44. This adaptive answer gives to the cell a capacity to “sense” its microenvironment and respond in return (by signal transduction or by cytoskeletal dynamics regulation). The benefit for final consumers? A
better effect linked to a more specific cellular answer. PrincipHYAL®
products have been
developed on the simple observation that the skin does not present just one very precise length of hyaluronan, but rather a coexistence of molecular weights, leading to specific biological mechanisms. The attention became therefore more focused on the ingredient activity, more than its molecular weight. As a matter of fact, it has been observed that a cell submitted to LMW HA can react in a completely opposite manner to a HMW HA. Studies on mesenchymal cells showed that an inflammatory reaction induced by LMW HA could be opposed to an anti-
inflammatory reaction linked to the presence of HMW HA. As per different in vitro cell models, a
subtle modification in the molecular weight spectrum of environmental (matrix) hyaluronans (HA) could lead to modifications in the physiology of the cells exposed. We proceeded to the production of a specific quality of hyaluronan, maintaining the same purity levels, but focusing less on a narrow peak, and more on a spectrum of peaks, reproducing the ones observed with the skin models. The purity of the ingredient was therefore not degraded, but the peaks have been enlarged and multiplied.
Subtler ingredients, fine-tuning skin physiology Roelmi HPC confirmed these observations with the development of distinct hyaluronan ingredients belonging to the PrincipHYAL Line: l PrincipHYAL Signal-10: quicker permeation than classic form of hyaluronans for an immediate effect of moisturisation and elasticity. Very useful for the concept of TURBO cosmetic;
l PrincipHYAL Aurora: a proved regenerating and wound-healing effect for a completely new skin;
l PrincipHYAL Difference: a wide spectrum of molecular weight studied
September 2020
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