22 NATURALS
an important role in the barrier function. The protein claudin-1 is a major structural component of TJs and its decrease beyond a certain level results in barrier function impairment.7
Skin ageing Skin ageing results from the deterioration of structures in the skin and the slowing of skin functions as impaired tissue renewal and progressive loss of physiological integrity. It is a dynamic, multifactorial process, characterised in two primary ageing factors: intrinsic or physiological ageing is determined as a function of heredity, and results in cutaneous alterations; extrinsic or environmental ageing, which also manifests in cutaneous changes, originates from exogenous factors (air pollution, sun exposure, etc.) and is (to a certain limit) avoidable. The intrinsic physiological process of
skin ageing involves structural, biochemical, and functional changes in both dermis and epidermis, particularly in their thickness and quality (e.g. loss of tone). As we age, the epidermis becomes thinner, due to a lower keratinocyte renewal.8
Changes also
occur in the dermis with the ageing of fibroblasts and therefore a slowdown in the synthesis of collagen and elastin as well as an increase in metalloproteinase production. This leads to decreased skin firmness with less support in face areas which begin to cave in, especially along the neck, cheeks, and eyelids. Intrinsically aged skin, which is less plump than youthful skin, is also characterised by decreased levels of HA. Moreover, the junction between the dermis and epidermis tends to flatten,
Figure 2: Harvesting African white hibiscus.
decreasing the flow of oxygen and nutrients to the epidermis.9
This contributes
to the declining process of skin cell renewal. All of this results in a weakened skin barrier function, a loss of water and increased TEWL leading to skin dryness and the appearance of wrinkles, a loss of elasticity, a skin surface rough and dull. Additionally, there is a thinning of the adipose tissue. Hypodermis ageing is marked by reduced adipocyte formation and the loss of fat tissues. This phenomenon called adipose atrophy intensifies sagging and loss of skin firmness affecting the shape of the face and creating a hollow appearance. Intrinsic ageing may also include mechanical ageing with the repetition day after day and year after year of muscle contractions, producing fine expression lines and deep wrinkles.
Figure 3: Baobab fruit.
A COSMOS-certified anti-ageing ingredient A powerful blend of actives Organic Repulpami®
ER Cosmos Certified is
a cosmetic ingredient developed by bringing together white hibiscus and baobab, both plants belonging to the same botanical order, Malvales. Indeed, the flowers of hibiscus and baobab are strikingly similar and bear witness to their family relationship. Hibiscus is a shrub which is found in
many tropical and sub-tropical regions. It is a botanical curiosity because the flowers develop a fleshy calyx which looks like a fruit after the petals have fallen. There are several varieties of hibiscus. White hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa) is a
variety with characteristic white calyx made up of five very fleshy white sepals (Fig 2). It is used in Senegalese cooking for its distinctive flavour. Hibiscus also owes its success to its many traditional medicinal properties, which make it effective against a variety of ailments such as stomach cramps; it is known for its anti-spasmodic properties on the intestinal and uterine muscles. These properties alerted us to the possibility of cosmetic applications involving contraction of the face muscles. Baobab tree (Adansonia digitata) has
Figure 4:Women sorting baobab pulp (courtesy of Diongoma).
Figure 5: Education of children is promoted (courtesy of Diongoma).
Figure 6:Women producers working in fields (courtesy of Diongoma).
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Figure 7: Drying process Zeodration from Alban Muller.
always captured people’s imagination both because of its surprising shape and because it lives for an extraordinarily long time. It is an iconic tree in Africa. This tree has thousands of different uses and remarkable regenerative powers. Due to its massive dimensions, it is considered the largest succulent plant in the world. A very interesting part is the fruit (Fig 3). The seeds of the mature fruit are surrounded by a powdery, dry pulp which Senegalese children eat like sweets. The pulp can also be made into a drink called “bouye” with water, which has a refreshing, tonic effect. The composition of the baobab fruit pulp, rich in antioxidant compounds like
September 2020
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