EYE AREA CARE 51


Plant cell complex for a radiant new look


n Sonia Léglise – Naolys, France


Naolys's objective with their new plant cell complex, InitialE [PT+TMG], that combines tuberose cells and betaine (trimethylglycine or TMG) integrated into the cells for the first time, is to provide a comprehensive action on the three major changes that occur in the area around the eyes: dark circles, puffiness and wrinkles, using the molecular synergy between the cells and natural betaine. Tuberose is a white heliotrope flower


that originated in Mexico and was introduced to Europe in the 16th century; it is now cultivated in India, North Africa and China, for use in perfumery. It releases a heady, sweet, penetrating fragrance which intensifies with nightfall. Extracted from beetroot (Beta vulgaris), glycine betaine was the first betaine of plant origin to be discovered in the 19th century. Enriching a plant cell in this way increases the bioavailability of all the active molecules that it contains.


Restimulating circulatory and tissue mechanisms We make our first contact with others via our eyes. Our general appearance depends to a large extent on our face, because its expressiveness reveals much of our personality. We take particular care of it during our daily beauty treatments. The skin around the eyes is very


delicate. It is three to five times thinner than on most of the face (0.5 to 0.001 mm). It is therefore very sensitive to the slightest internal or external pressures to which it is subjected: ageing, poor lifestyle (lack of sleep, smoking), and also the inherent fragility of the blood and lymphatic micro-circulation system that deteriorates with time. Furthermore, it is constantly worked by


the orbicular muscle. It is thus the first part of the face to show signs of age. With age, the area around the eyes


changes; it can alter its shape and colour; it is therefore necessary to act on several of the mechanisms involved in order to reduce these changes.


September 2020 23.40%


n Skin radiance n Circles n Puffiness


n Fine line and wrinkles n Intensity of circles colour


-11% -14% -16% -13%


Day 0


Day 30 Figure 1: Evolution through time of the treated area after 30 days (% of variation).


Helping to restore the shape and original colour of the area around the eyes Several changes take place over time. Crow’s feet and wrinkles on the lower eyelids appear due to a deficiency in tissue rigidity, since the very thin dermis lacks collagen and elastin; this phenomenon develops with time and is aggravated by the eyes’ constant blinking (more than 1,000 times/day). Secondly, as the epidermis is also


thinner, the hydrolipidic film has a reduced thickness and a tendency to dry out more frequently. The area around the eyes is rich in mast


cells, making it susceptible to intolerances, irritations and allergies, which can cause it


to redden. Furthermore, lymphatic micro- circulation and blood flow often slow down. This can lead to the appearance of circles, due to a deficiency in the return flow of blood (blue rings) and/or an accumulation of blood pigments in the connective tissue (brown rings). Also a swelling of the eyelids or puffiness, which can be caused by a slackening of the tissues. Through its action on the quality of the


fibres and the colour of epidermis, InitialE [PT+TMG] (the plant cell complex) enables the area around the eyes to regain brightness and its original shape.


Clinical testing results Study conditions Tests were carried out for 30 days on 21


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