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86 FRAGRANCES


Travel broadens the mind and the senses


n Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care Ana Ripoll – Iberchem, Spain


While it is readily acknowledged that attitudes to beauty and product textures differ according to region, it is important to also remember that fragrance preferences can also be specific to certain countries. Many things influence a response to fragrance: a country’s cuisine, its religious ceremonies, and its flora. All these aspects, and countless more, combine to guide how an individual develops fragrance preferences during his or her lifetime. With visual beauty it is possible to quickly and easily research regional variations, but with fragrance it is difficult to do this without physically experiencing the country’s unique flavours and aromas. So much can be learned firsthand, and along with gaining an understanding of new potential ingredients, these experiences can also be hugely beneficial for developing new ways of working. To help us learn more about the benefits of this type of ‘knowledge exchange’ within the fragrance industry, Personal Care spoke to Ana Ripoll of Spanish fragrance company, Iberchem. Shortly after joining Iberchem, Ana was given the opportunity to live in China for two years and work from the company’s centre in Guangzhou. Here, Ana gives us an insight into how the experience helped her develop as a perfumer.


Personal Care: Could you tell us a little about your background as a perfumer? Ana Ripoll: I graduated from university with a double degree in biochemistry and chemistry, during which I had the chance to study abroad, in Belgium. When joining Iberchem, I was first given a full year training to get familiar with all the technical aspects related with the creation of a fragrance, from the analysis of the essential oils to the application of a fragrance to a base. This training is given to all perfumers and laboratory staff when joining the company. Afterwards, I joined the team of perfumers for almost 2 years before going to China.


PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC


Ana Ripoll of Iberchem.


PC: Which word would best describe your experience in China? AR: I guess it would be “challenge”. A good one, of course! I have always perceived Asia as an idyllic destination I wanted to explore. That is why I signed up for this adventure, and I am so glad I did. It has been an unforgettable experience. On a personal level, it was quite something at first to face the immensity of Guangzhou: a new language, a new culture and so many new smells I couldn’t identify. Slowly but surely, I started getting used to the city, and Iberchem became like my second home. I made really good friends and, from time to time, I do miss my life over there. I will always remember this experience as unique and incomparable.


PC: Have you noticed any differences or similarities in fragrances between China and Spain? AR: For a culture who tend to prefer neutral


and natural flavours (very sweet or very salty food is usually not their favourite), it is quite interesting how much they seem to enjoy fragrances with strong floral notes or even woody notes, especially when it comes to personal care products. However, they’re not too keen on animalistic notes or those that are too sweet.


PC: Could you name some of the ingredients you noticed being used that perhaps differed from ones you were used to? AR: In general the trends are similar to the ones of Europe, but I did notice that patchouli and lemon were particularly of popular use.


PC: You said that you have discovered new smells. Could you give us an example? AR: Of course. The smell of durian or the one of tofu when it is fermenting. These two smells are quite striking at first. I also


November 2017


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