50 SKIN CARE **p<0.01 *p<0.05 versus control
1.4 1.3 1.2 1.1 1
0.9 0.8 0.7 0.6
Control DHEA Androstenedione
Figure 3: Stimulation of the synthesis of DHEA and androstenedione by the monk’s pepper extract at 0.1%.
female reproductive system. Nowadays it is especially recommended for the treatment of premenstrual syndrome (PMS). The term refers to symptoms such as irritability, tension, anxiety and physical changes that some women experience in the two weeks before the period starts. High levels of the hormone prolactin are thought to play a role in PMS. Chaste tree was found to reduce the release of prolactin, probably through its dopaminergic action. Binding of lipophilic compounds of chaste tree to the dopamine receptor is well documented.7 Meier et al. showed also binding to the opiate receptors, especially to the mu and kappa type (Fig 1).8
Since anxiety,
depression and sleeping problems are important symptoms of PMS and beta- endorphins are known to induce feelings of pleasure and euphoria, the beta-endorphin- like activity might also be involved in the beneficial effect of chaste tree in the treatment of PMS. Binding to the mu and kappa opiate receptor was more pronounced in the lipophilic fraction of an ethanol extract, but the exact molecular nature of
Epidermis Dermis ** *
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
n Placebo n Monk’s pepper ingredient
*p<0.05 versus untreated *
*
14 days
28 days
Figure 4: Improvement of skin elasticity after four weeks of treatment with a cream containing 2% monk’s pepper ingredient.
the active compounds is not known yet. The biosynthesis of steroid hormones starts with the conversion of cholesterol to pregnenolone (Fig 2) by a specific cytochrome P450 enzyme (CYP). These enzymes can catalyse monooxygenase reactions leading to the insertion of an oxygen atom into an organic substrate. On the pathway to DHEA another CYP enzyme helps to transform pregnenolone into DHEA by first introducing an hydroxyl group and then deacetylation at the C17. DHEA is then further metabolised to androstenedione with the help of the enzyme 3β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase which converts the hydroxyl group at the C3 into a keto configuration. Androstenedione is a direct precursor of the male sex hormone testosterone. However, androstenedione may also be converted directly to oestrogen, the female sex hormone. In order to assess a potential stimulatory
effect on the biosynthesis of sex steroid hormones, the adrenocortical cell line NCI-H295R was used to test a monk’s pepper extract. The cell line, derived from
Epidermis Dermis Day 0 Day 28
Figure 5: Ultrasonographic images of the forearm of a volunteer before and after treatment. Colour scale: white – yellow – red – green – blue – black; light colours indicating high echogenicity and thus high skin density.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
an invasive human adrenocortical tumour, was shown to express all the key enzymes of the sex steroid pathway. A defined number of cells was exposed to the monk’s pepper extract at different concentrations for 48 hours. The concentration of DHEA and androstenedione in the supernatant was analysed by liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry. Results showed for the monk’s pepper extract a significant stimulation of the synthesis of DHEA as well as of androstenedione (Fig 3). To test in clinical studies, a monk’s pepper extract was encapsulated on maltodextrin (Densorphin; INCI: Vitex Agnus Castus Extract, Maltodextrin, Aqua/Water). A cream, based on an oil in water emulsion, containing 2% monk’s pepper ingredient was tested on 15 women and 15 men aged between 52 and 76. The cream with the monk’s pepper ingredient was applied twice daily for 28 days on the inner side of the forearm. The other forearm was treated with the placebo cream. Skin elasticity was measured with the Cutometer MPA 580 (Courage & Khazaka GmbH, Cologne). After four weeks of use, and compared to the placebo product, the emulsion with the monk’s pepper ingredient clearly improved skin elasticity (Fig 4). In another clinical study, high-frequency ultrasound (Dermascan C Cortex Technology) was used to analyse tissue density in the dermis. The ultrasonographic wave generates an echo when it is reflected at the boundaries between different tissue structures. The intensity of the reflected echoes can be evaluated and visualised in colour images. The collagen and elastin fibre structure of an intact dermis generates many reflections visible as bright colours in the ultrasonographic image. However, disruption of this regular architecture leads to weaker reflections and dark patches (Fig 5). This so- called subepidermal low-echogenic band (SLEB) is characteristic for aged and photo- damaged skin. Changes in SLEB of 15 women and 15 men aged between 50 and 65 were monitored. The volunteers applied a cream with 2% monk’s pepper ingredient over 4
November 2017
Relative concentration compared to control
Mean increase in skin elasticity relative to initial conditions and untreated (%)
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