FRAGRANCES 83


A unique preservative-free solution


n Sinerga Research Centre – Sinerga, Italy


Over the past few years, consumer demands and, therefore market trends, have registered a shift towards preservative- free formulations, which are viewed as being healthier and natural but at the same time are able to grant a good stability, good organoleptic characteristics and, over all, a good resistance to microbial contamination. In addition to the trend for ‘free-from’ products, there is also a growing number of consumers who seek short, simple ingredients lists due to the fact they are considered less ‘artificial’. Up to now, the topic of ‘preservative-


free’ has always been extremely delicate for formulators, since cosmetic formulations are more likely to be contaminated by bacteria and therefore need an efficient protection. Naticide®


from Italian ingredient


manufacturer, Sinerga, meets this need with a new concept of multifunctional ingredient, allowing the formulation of safe and preservative-free cosmetics. It is a blend of vegetable extracts formulated according to the IFRA recommendations


Table 1: MIC result ATCC (1)


Bacteria Gram + Staphylococcus aureus


Staphylococcus epidermidis Bacteria Gram -


Pseudomonas aeruginosae* Pseudomonas putida Escherichia coli


Enterobacter aerogenes Proteus vulgaris


Serratia marcescens Yeast


Saccharomices cerevisiae Candida albicans*


Mould Aspergillus niger Aspergillus flavus Penicillium notatum


*pathogen November 2017 6538 12228 9027


49128 8739


13048 13315 8100


2366 10231


16404 9643 9178


MIC


5000 ppm 5000 ppm


5000 ppm


2500-5000 ppm 5000 ppm 5000 ppm 5000 ppm 5000 ppm


2500 ppm 2500 ppm


2500 ppm 2500 ppm 2500 ppm


Bacteria Gram + Staphylococcus aureus


Staphylococcus epidermidis Bacteria Gram -


Pseudomonas aeruginosae* Pseudomonas putida Escherichia coli


Enterobacter aerogenes Proteus vulgaris


Serratia marcescens Yeast


Saccharomices cerevisiae Candida albicans*


Mould Aspergillus niger Aspergillus flavus Penicillium notatum


*pathogen PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC


inside the Sinerga R&D Lab. Its physical form is a clear liquid, colourless to yellow, with a pleasant, light sweet odour with vanilla and almond notes. Thanks to this almond aroma, the use of additional perfumes can be avoided and Naticide (INCI Name: Parfum) could also be the base for a fresh and natural scent. Supported by a wide and complete activity spectrum, it is effective against Gram-positive, Gram-negative, yeasts and moulds, in a pH range between 4 - 9.


MIC (Minimum Inhibitory Concentration) The preliminary evaluation on Naticide (now referred to as ‘the vegetable extract blend’) has been performed by MIC test (Minimum Inhibitory Concentration). MIC is a turbidimetric evaluation that determines the needed concentration of the product in order to inhibit the microbial growth. It is carried out by setting up series of vials containing the product of interest at different concentrations and then including a known quantity of microorganism.


Table 1a: MIC result ATCC (1) 6538 12228 9027


49128 8739


13048 13315 8100


2366 10231


16404 9643 9178


107-108 u.f.c/ml 106-107 u.f.c/ml 108-109 u.f.c/ml INULOUM


The MIC is the lowest concentration at which the product is able to inhibit microbial growth. This test is extremely important in order to define the efficacy of the ingredient and the sensitivity of different microorganisms to a given product.


Preservative efficacy The antimicrobial activity of the vegetable extract blend has been tested by a simulated microbial attack, better known as challenge test. The method used for the Viable count is the one according to Farmacopea Ufficiale Italiana IX ed. and the UE Policy 76/768 dated 27.07.1976. The challenge test evaluates the real capacity of not only preventing microbial contamination, but also of reducing it up to a level that is safe for human health, once the contamination has occurred. To determinate the microbial survival, a total viable count has been performed after 7, 14 and 28 days.


Results After 7 days from the inoculation, a drastic


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