SKIN CARE 51
weeks twice daily on the forearm and the placebo cream on the other forearm. Already after four weeks’ treatment, the SLEB was much less pronounced indicating a redensification of the dermis (Fig 5). Quantification of the skin density, and compared to the placebo-treated area, showed a statistically significant increase of 9.2%.
Conclusion The level of circulating DHEA decreases in men between the ages of 40 to 80 years and in women between the age of 30 and the menopause by about 60%.9, 10
Women
at menopause are lacking oestrogens not only because of a missing ovarian activity but also because of reduced adrenal function. Also in men, ageing is accompanied by a decline of testicular as well as adrenal steroid hormones. In the skin, oestrogen stimulates the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and collagen I and III. Declining oestrogen levels are a main cause for skin ageing. Based on the capacity of the skin to synthesise sex steroid hormones from cholesterol, topical application of a monk’s pepper extract makes it possible to increase DHEA and androstenedione levels in the skin. Furthermore, the monk’s pepper extract was found to contain mu opioid receptor agonist compounds. Plasma levels of beta-endorphin were found to be
significantly decreased in postmenopausal women compared to fertile women.11 Because of the importance of the beta- endorphin / mu opioid receptor system in skin regeneration, the agonist compounds represent the other part of the overall anti-ageing effect of topically applied monk’s pepper.
PC
References 1 Slominski A, Zbytek B, Nikolakis G, Manna PR, Skobowiat C, Zmijewski M, Li W, Janjetovic Z, Postlethwaite A, Zouboulis CC, Tuckey RC. Steroidogenesis in the skin: implications for local immune functions. J Steroid Biochem Mol Biol. 2013; 137:107-23.
2 Pomari E, Dalla Valle L, Pertile P, Colombo L, Thornton MJ. Intracrine sex steroid synthesis and signaling in human epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. The FASEB Journal. 2015; 29:508-24.
3 Bigliardi PL, Sumanovski LT, Büchner S, Rufli T, Bigliardi Q. Different Expression of µ-Opiate Receptor in Chronic and Acute Wounds and the Effect of β-Endorphin on Transforming Growth Factor β Type II Receptor and Cytokeratin 16 Expression. J Invest Dermatol. 2003; 120:145-52.
4 Schiller M, Raghunath M, Kubitscheck U, Scholzen TE, Fisbeck T, Metze D, Luger TA, Böhm M. Human dermal fibroblasts express prohormone convertases 1 and 2 and produce proopiomelanocortin-derived peptides. J Invest Dermatol. 2001; 117:227-35.
5 Kauser S, Schallreuter KU, Thody AJ, Gummer C, Tobin DJ. Regulation of human epidermal melanocyte biology by beta-endorphin. J Invest Dermatol. 2003; 120:1073-80.
6 Bigliardi PL, Dancik Y, Neumann C, Bigliardi Q. Opioids and skin homeostasis, regeneration and ageing – What’s the evidence? Exp Dermatol. 2016; 25 (8):586-91.
7 Wuttke W, Jarry H, Christoffel V, Spengler B, Seidlovai-Wuttke D. Chaste tree (Vitex agnus- castus) – pharmacology and clinical indications. Phytomedicine 2003; 10:348-57.
8 Meier B, Berger D, Hoberg E, Sticher O, Schaffner W. Pharmacological activities of Vitex agnus-castus extract in vitro. Phytomedicine 2000; 7:373-81.
9 Bélanger A, Candas B, Dupont A, Cusan L, Diamond P, Gomez JL, Labrie F. Changes in serum concentrations of conjugated and unconjugated steroids in 40- to 80-year-old men. J Clin Endocrinol Metab. 1994; 79 (4):1086-90.
10 Labrie F, Luu-The V, Labrie C, Simard J. DHEA and its Transformation into Androgens and Estrogens in Peripheral Target Tissues: Intracrinology. Frontiers in Neuroendocrinology 2001; 22:185-212.
11 Genazzani AR, Facchinetti F, Ricci-Danero MG, Parrini D, Petraglia F, La Rosa R, D’Antona N. Beta-lipotropin and beta-endorphin in physiological and surgical menopause. J. Endocrinol. Invest. 1981; 375 (4):375-378.
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November 2017 PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
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