36 SKIN PROTECTION
A solution for pollution- induced ageing of skin
n Kazal Boron Biswas, Kiyotaka Tanaka, Satoru Takayama, Arunasiri Iddamalgoda – Ichimaru Pharcos, Japan
Environmental pollution has now become the talk of the world. It is very important to keep in mind that more than half of the world’s population now lives in an urban area. It is assumed that by 2030, 60% of the world’s population will be living in towns and cities, rising to 70% by 2050.1
As skin is
the first line of defence when it comes to air pollution contact, we should be aware of the harmful effects of pollution on skin in general. Pollution, in fact, is not a problem limited to China or India only, it is almost common, for example, in London, Paris, New York and Milan as well. As urbanisation is the main cause of environmental pollution, it could be speculated that most of the people in the world are going to face higher levels of such pollution than ever before, and it will be very difficult for us to escape from that.
It needs to be taken under consideration that the sole use of a face-mask is not safe enough to protect skin from the detrimental effect of environmental pollution. Although pollution-induced skin ageing is thought to share the similar regulatory pathways involved in photo-ageing, it is still important to think that, compared to photo-ageing which occurs at day time and outdoors,
a
Tobacco Smoke (Organic Extract) +
Ougon Liquid
Tobacco Smoke (Organic Extract)
0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% Relative MMP-1 Expression
b
Tobacco Smoke (Aqueous Extract) +
Ougon Liquid
Tobacco Smoke (Aqueous Extract)
0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% Relative MMP-1 Expression
Figure 2: Reduction of MMP-1 expression induced by oil (a) and water (b) soluble components of tobacco smoke by ougon.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Tobacco Smoke (Organic Extract)
Tobacco Smoke (Organic Extract) +
Ougon Liquid 0% 20% 40% 60% Relative CYP1B1 Expression
Figure 1: Inhibition of tobacco smoke (extracted in an organic solvent, Hexane) -induced expression of CYP1B1 in human cultured fibroblasts by ougon.
pollutant-induced ageing could be more severe because it occurs at any time (day or night) and any place (indoor or outdoor). However, among the pollutants, tobacco smoke and particulate matter (PM2.5) are presumed to be the major players responsible for the cause of skin inflammation, pigmentation, and wrinkles as evident from various sporadic clinical and epidemiological studies. We at Ichimaru Pharcos have developed a unique plant- based natural ingredient, S. baicalensis (ougon extract, trade name: Ougon Liquid B), which could provide consumers with a better solution to suppress the harmful effects of those two prominent pollutants on human skin cells.
Air pollution and its mechanism of action
Air pollution is composed of two main types of pollutants - primary and secondary. Whereas primary pollutants such as particulate matter (PM) and gases (O3 CO, SO2
, CO2 , NO2 ) or volatile organic
compounds are formed directly from their sources, secondary pollutants such as ozone and peroxyacetyl nitrates are formed from photochemical reactions between the primary pollutants, heat and UV radiation.
,
Clinical and epidemiological studies suggest that chronic air pollution exposure is highly correlated with premature skin ageing signs such as inflammation, pigmented spots and wrinkles.2
However, major effects on human
skin seem to be linked predominantly with tobacco smoke and particulate matter (PM), both of which contain numerous polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) on their surfaces.3,4
It is speculated that prolonged
or repetitive exposure to high levels of these pollutants may have profound negative effects on the skin. Environmental pollutants are well known for their actions to upregulate the expression of various genes associated with skin ageing including pigmentation, inflammation, and wrinkles by the induction of cytochrome p450 (CYP) enzymes. CYPs are, in general, oxidase enzymes of the electron transport chains of mitochondria. They are known to be regulated by a ligand-dependent transcription factor called Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor (AhR) which is located in the cytoplasm in its inactive form. When AhR is activated by binding to its ligand, it is translocated to nucleus where it acts as a transcription factor. Tobacco smoke and PM actually function as ligands of AhR for its activation
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