42 SKIN CARE
the mechanisms by which facial pores become noticeable (Fig 1). In this article, we describe the clinical trial that investigated the effects of fullerene in improving conspicuous facial pores as well as the results of the investigation into the mechanism of action of fullerene.
Application of fullerenes in cosmetics Fullerenes (C60) have a spherical structure in which 60 carbon atoms form a soccer- ball-like shape. They are called the third carbon allotropes following diamond and graphite (Fig 2). Fullerenes, in addition to their unique and beautiful structure, are known for their excellent active-oxygen– scavenging effects. They are different from common active-oxygen scavengers (antioxidants) such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and polyphenols in that they have a different scavenging mechanism by which they eliminate active oxygen and they are light-stable. Common antioxidants eliminate active oxygen by providing hydrogen to it; in the case of fullerenes, it is the π electrons present on the surface of the molecule that contribute to the elimination of active oxygen. Furthermore, common antioxidants are
readily oxidised and decomposed by exposure to light as their light stability is low and their active-oxygen–scavenging effects are lost after being exposed to light. On the other hand, fullerenes have excellent light stability and they maintain stable levels of radical-scavenging capacity after being exposed to light.2
against the UVA-induced generation of ROS. Radical Sponge (now referred to as ‘the PVP- wrapped fullerenes‘) was found to prevent the UV A-induced increase in intracellular ROS and cell degeneration (Fig 3). From these findings of its potent antioxidative properties, fullerene is expected to reduce oxidative stress, and thereby help sustain healthy skin.
About 1 nm
Figure 2: Fullerene (C60) Molecule consisting of 60 carbon atoms.
releases of ‘Sun Guard Fullerene’ specifically for protection against sun exposure and ‘Hair Shiny Fullerene’ for hair care. They currently sell six types of fullerene-based cosmetic ingredients.
Fullerenes are
also heat-stable and their structure remains stable under high temperatures (100ºC or higher). VC60 Corporation took note of the superior active-oxygen–scavenging capacity and light/heat stability of fullerenes, and started the manufacture and sale of fullerenes as a cosmetic ingredient in 2005. In 2017, they introduced new
High
Potent antioxidant capacity Oxidative stress, caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) or free radicals, is known to be harmful to healthy skin. The main factor that contributes to oxidative stress in skin tissue is UV radiation. When skin is exposed to UV radiation, active oxygen or free radicals are produced, which cause flecks, freckles, wrinkles, and irritation. The addition of antioxidative ingredients to cosmetic products is effective in protecting the skin from oxidative stress. UV radiation generates ROS or free radicals, which can cause a series of biological effects in human skin cells, resulting in cell damage or cell death. Xiao et al. showed that the scavenging effect of fullerenes eliminated free radicals and active oxygen from cells.3
They evaluated
UVA-induced elevation of intracellular ROS in human melanoma HMV-II cells by using the CDCFH method, and monitored the antioxidative effect of Radical Sponge®
Reduction in conspicuous facial pores using fullerenes We conducted a clinical trial with 10 Japanese women (median age: 40 years), who gave consent, under the supervision of Ayako Mori, Hospital Director. The subjects applied a lotion containing PVP-wrapped fullerenes (1%), a fullerene cosmetic ingredient, to the entire face after washing it, once each in the morning and at night. We observed the skin condition of the subjects over time using the VISIA system and a microscope prior to, 1 month after, and 2 months after the trial. Statistical analyses of the results obtained for all subjects showed that conspicuous facial pores decreased by 17.6% in 2 months (p<0.05, Wilcoxon signed-rank test, Fig 4). Some subjects experienced a reduction of 30% or more. Additionally, the results showed a decrease in the size of facial pores in 80% of the subjects.4
Possibility of a facial pore improvement mechanism based on anti-inflammatory effects Results of the aforementioned clinical trial revealed that conspicuous facial pores were reduced by 20% on average in 2 months. Feedback from users of cosmetics containing fullerenes and the results of our clinical trial showed that fullerenes were effective in reducing conspicuous facial pores. We examined the reasons for this from the viewpoint of oxidation and
Low 3% Radical Sponge UVA 60J/cm2 Figure 3: Repressive effects of Radical Sponge on intracellular oxidative stress in UVA-irradiated HMV-II cells. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC November 2017 No additive
Control UVA (-)
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