76 SKIN CARE
Enhanced foaming properties and mildness on skin
n Victor Low – Lonza, US
Mildness in cleansing systems for face and hair is a critical characteristic for consumers. Consumers are interested in low or no- irritation systems to maintain the health of their skin and hair. This is particularly true regarding facial cleansers and baby care products such as shampoos and body washes. Foam performance, such as building foam and foam texture, also are key to creating a successful commercial product.
Asia Pacific consumers are accustomed to these cleansing systems, and they use multiple products. For example: “South Korean Beauty routines can consist of up to 10 steps … (as consumers strive) … to achieve the so-called ‘chok-chok’ skin, which is supposed to look bright, fair, plump, dewy and youthful.”1 Multiple-step regimes can have a compounding effect on irritation on skin, causing potential long-term damage. Ingredient suppliers and personal care manufacturers who offer alternative systems with low irritation profiles enable consumers to perform their skin and hair care routines with minimal discomfort.
n Polyaldo®
160.00 140.00 120.00 100.00 80.00 60.00 40.00 20.00 -
- 100.00 200.00 300.00 400.00 Time (s)
Figure 1: Flash foam analysis of Polyaldo 10-1-CC mild surfactant vs. PEG-80 sorbitan laurate vs. decyl glucoside.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC 500.00 600.00 700.00 800.00 When Lonza scientists looked at the company’s Polyaldo® product line last year,
they discovered Polyaldo 10-1-CC polyglyceryl ester (INCI name: Polyglyceryl- 10 caprylate/caprate) had true surfactancy characteristics. Lonza determined to formally investigate the surfactancy properties of Polyaldo 10-1-CC mild surfactant (now referred to by its INCI name). We found Polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate mild surfactant offers excellent foam generation while maintaining mildness in personal care surfactant cleansing systems such as baby shampoos, facial cleanser, and hand washes. Suitable for a wide range of formulation types, Polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate mild surfactant is Ecocert- approved, Halal- and Kosher-certified, manufactured from 100% plant-derived raw materials and an excellent choice for PEG-free cleansing formulations.
Making the perfect polyglyceryl ester Derived from our 50 years of expertise in polyglyceryl ester chemistries for food
10-1-CC n Decyl Glucoside n PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate
applications, Lonza has developed a non- ionic surfactant to help meet consumer needs. The Polyaldo polyglyceryl ester range is created via the esterification of a polyglyceryl and fatty acid in the presence of a proprietary catalyst. To meet the market’s expectations, we have commissioned independent, third-party studies in order to validate the benefits of Polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate mild surfactant, highlighting foam performance, surfactancy attributes, irritancy profile, and skin penetration of surfactants.
Foam performance To measure foam performance, Lonza commissioned a study from Lyon, France- based Teclis Scientific. The foam analyser used in the study generates foam images, then software translates the images into quantitative values. The objective was to measure the time it takes for the surfactant to generate 150 ml of foam and analyse the foam following its generation via image analysis.
The Research and Technology Team at
Lonza created three face wash prototypes for the foam analysis study; one containing Polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate mild surfactant, and two others containing PEG-80 sorbitan laurate and decyl glucoside, respectively. They accounted for varying concentrations by adjusting the use level so all three surfactants would be tested at 5% equivalent activity. Figure 1 measures foam generation over time. PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, charted in green, took 700 seconds to achieve 150 ml of foam. Polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate mild surfactant, denoted in orange, generated 150 ml of foam in about 200 seconds. Decyl glucoside generated the 150 ml of foam in about 100 sec. The key takeaway from the foam generation study is the data generated within the first 50 seconds. Polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate mild surfactant generated a comparable amount of flash foam compared to decyl glucoside. The isolation of the first 50 seconds of foam generation is important because many consumers spend
November 2017
Foam Volume (ml)
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