38 SKIN PROTECTION
7.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0
Control PM2.5(50µg/mL)
PM2.5(50µg/mL) +
Ougon Liquid (0.01%)
PM2.5(50µg/mL) +
Ougon Liquid (0.2%)
Figure 6: Down-regulation of PM2.5-induced expression of IL-6 in NHEK by ougon.
process of metabolism of the AhR ligands, there may be production of toxic substances which may induce the expression of many inflammatory cytokines.10 We collected PM2.5 particles from National Institute of Standard and Technology (NIST), US, and assessed its biological impact directly on keratinocytes cell culture. Shortly, NHEK were exposed with specified ougon extract for 24 hrs, and then challenged with PM2.5. After 4 hrs of exposure with PM2.5, the cells were harvested for RNA preparation required for the determination of mRNA expressions of CYPs and some inflammatory cytokines using specific primers by real-time PCR. Recently, we showed in one of our publications that ougon could inhibit PM2.5-induced inflammatory reactions in NHEK.11
But this time we are fortunate that
we could provide data on CYPs too. It was a
110 105 100 95 90 85 80 75 70
0W Age 50s female smoker
5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0
Control PM2.5(50µg/mL)
PM2.5(50µg/mL) +
Ougon Liquid (0.01%)
PM2.5(50µg/mL) +
Ougon Liquid (0.2%)
Figure 7: Dose-dependent inhibition of IL-8 expression induced by PM2.5 in human cultured keratinocytes by ougon.
interesting to observe that the exposure of just 1 µg/ml of PM2.5 with NHEK for only 4 hrs induced the mRNA expressions of both CYP1A1 and CYP1B1 more than 25-fold, and ougon was able to significantly reduce the expressions of both (Fig 3, Fig 4). Moreover, ougon was shown to reduce the PM2.5-induced expressions of IL-1b (Fig 5), IL-6 (Fig 6) and IL-8 (Fig 7) in dose dependent manners. We have already mentioned that AhR activation may transcribe many enzymes which may induce multiple pathways of inflammation. During chronic inflammation, MMPs may degrade more collagen than the skin can synthesise which leads to the formation of fine lines and wrinkle. However, our findings indicate that ougon may reduce inflammatory conditions and other related complications induced by PM2.5 exposure by inhibiting the AhR activation pathway.
b
n Ougon Liquid n Control
8W
125 120 115 110 105 100 95 90 85 80
Clinical evaluations Clinical investigations were performed using a lotion containing 2% of the extract which was applied twice a day for 8 weeks on the faces of 19 smokers aged between 20-50 years. After 8 weeks, skin was tested for the efficacy of the extract on the improvement of wrinkle, elasticity, pigmented spots, and whitening. Wrinkle depth was measured by Reflect 3D Analysis, elasticity by Cutometer, melanin index by Mexameter, and pigmented spots were measured by Roboskin Analyzer. It was found that the product was able to significantly inhibit wrinkle formation (Fig 8a), and improve skin elasticity (Fig 8b). Pigmented spots and melanin index (Fig 9) were also decreased significantly on the faces of the smokers.
Conclusion
n Ougon Liquid n Control
0W 8W
For the last 20-30 years UV was really the main topic in skin care science. Until recently, people might not have been aware of the detrimental effects of environmental pollution on skin mainly because UV was thought to be the one to cause extrinsic skin ageing. Nowadays, people have come to know that pollutants have harmful effects similar to that of UV on skin, and also that pollutants in combination with UV may have greater impact on skin because of the production of ozone from photochemical reactions between the pollutants, heat, and UV. One of the pollutants is tobacco smoke, which is well-known for its harmful effects on health, and another is PM2.5, against which scientists have already declared war all over the world. People are now looking for solutions to
0w 8w
Figure 8: Ougon significantly reduced the formation of wrinkle (a) and improved skin elasticity (b) on human skin.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
the harmful effects of pollution. We have been conducting exclusive research on environmental factor-induced skin ageing for many years. Among these factors we investigated tobacco smoke and PM2.5’s relationship with skin ageing with the aim of developing a natural-based cosmetic ingredient to be used in cosmetic formulations. We could provide one optimistic solution that ougon extract could be an ideal cosmetic ingredient for
November 2017
Relative depth of wrinkle (%)
Relative IL-6 Expression
Relative elasticity (%)
Relative IL-8 Expression
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