SKIN CARE 61
18.0 15.0 12.0 9.0 6.0 3.0 0.0
n Active n Placebo * 14.6 12.0 9.0
N.S 4.3
0.6 0.0 D14 D28
Figure 3: ITA variation. 1% IBR-Pristinizer cream vs. Placebo following 14 and 28-day treatment.
as a stimulant (“against tiredness”)5 and
against the common cold. Among the cultures which make use of it, the plant is widely consumed as a tea or infusion, and dry leaves thrown on live coals have also been used to produce smoke for therapeutic inhalation. Other plants in the genus are known as being useful as antispasmodics, anti-inflammatories and antimicrobials (e.g. used to prevent or treat infections in wounds or skin lesions).6 The plant’s adaptation to extremely challenging conditions most likely plays a strong role in determining its composition, which includes a variety of potentially beneficial compounds. Essential oils of Asteriscus graveolens
are known to contain a wide variety of terpenes.7
The plant is also known to
contain a variety of flavonoids, coumarins, and tannins.8
Aqueous extracts have been shown to have some antibacterial properties.10-13
Essential oils and organic extracts of Asteriscus graveolens have been shown to have properties as antifungals and antioxidants, possibly due to the terpene content.9
Test method We challenged keratinocytes with medium contaminated with cigarette smoke, as a broad model for pollution that is itself also known to lead to premature skin ageing, and measured the cells’ ability to survive, with and without the addition of Asteriscus graveolens extract.
Following the observation of a significant reduction in smoke-induced cell death in the presence of Asteriscus graveolens extract we went on trying to understand the action mechanism of the product on the cells using a gene expression study.
Results
The study revealed that Asteriscus graveolens extract has the following effects: Anti-Oxidant: Asteriscus graveolens extract assists in protecting cells from air pollution-
November 2017 D14 D28
Figure 4: Hydration variation. 1% IBR-Pristinizer cream vs. Placebo following 14 and 28-day treatment.
induced oxidative stress: reducing the expression of USP15 (down x0.27) and ENC1 (down x0.38), leading to increased accumulation of the anti-oxidant master regulator NRF2. Anti-Inflammatory: Asteriscus graveolens extract protects cells from inflammatory response following exposure to air pollution through reduction of the expression of the p38 signalling target, MAPKAPK2 (MK2 down x0.34) - leading to attenuated cytokine secretion.
Detoxification & Cell Survival: Asteriscus
graveolens extract protects cells from air pollution-induced ER-stress-mediated cell death by reducing the expression of ATF6 (down x0.31) as well as that of cell death- related genes, resulting in increased cell survival. It stimulates (up x2.03) cytochrome p450 expression, leading to detoxification of exogenous compounds. The product’s ability to protect and
repair skin damage was tested once more using cigarette smoke as a broad model for air pollution, by assessing its anti-ageing and detoxifying effects in a group of heavy
Skin Testing Instruments for R&D 4.4 6.0 3.0 0.9 * 7.5 4.4 18.0 15.0 * 15.0 n Active n Placebo
featuring capacitance imaging com- parable to the L‘Oréal SkinChip®
MoistureMap MM 100 *
graphic information on hydration distribution (MoistureMapping) and micro-topography of skin and other tissues (e.g. textiles, plants)
new software for analysis of the results
improved topographic parameters for assessing skin aging: anisotropy and corner density
in-vitro adapter available combination with Tewameter®
Corneometer® (EP 1 438 922 B1) and probes possible
* licenced worldwide under the L‘Oréal patent for the Skin Chip®
visit us & explore the possibilities: in-cosmetics Asia stand C 10
Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH Cologne • Germany • Phone ++49-221-9564990
info@courage-khazaka.de •
www.courage-khazaka.de
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
% Change
% Change
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96
