34 MEN’S GROOMING
Table 8: Cranberry seed oil – typical composition. Acid names
C16:0 Palmitic
C16:1 Palmitoleic C18.0 Stearic
C18:1 Oleic (Omega-9) C18:2 Linoleic (Omega-6)
Range (%) 3 – 6 ≤ 0.5
0.5 – 2 22 – 26 30 – 40
C18.3 Alpha linolenic (Omega-3) 28 – 38 C20:1 Icosenoic C24:0 Lignoceric
≤ 0.1 ≤ 1.0
health, and are also thought to lower the risk of certain cancers, reduce inflammatory mediators and provide healthy joints, skin and hair. Due to the rich source of omega-3 and antioxidants people suffering from fibromyalgia, eczema and psoriasis are sometimes advised to take cranberry seed oil or supplements containing cranberry seed oil. As the oil is cold pressed, the important phytonutrients are protected by naturally occurring antioxidants, including all eight isomers of vitamin E, carotenoids (beta- carotene). Cranberry seed oil is one of the richest sources of tocotrienols.12
Raspberry seed oil (Rubus Idaeus) Raspberry seed oil is excellent for sensitive skins and is deeply nourishing, softening and lubricating. The oil is a rich golden yellow colour with a mild clean oily aroma, has a light non greasy skin-feel and is relatively slow to absorb, making it ideal for massage and spa type products where a longer application time is often desired. The oil is very stable and an excellent free radical scavenger.
Raspberry seed oil contains 83% essential fatty acids and is unique because it contains naturally high levels of vitamin E in the form of gamma-tocopherol, which is the most active form of vitamin E for skin care along with alpha-tocopherol. This tocopherol rich composition has a well-known function in skin repair and conditioning, which is related to its antioxidant properties As a result, raspberry oil provides natural
protection from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays, it has shown absorbance in the UV-B
and UV-C ranges suggesting its use as a broad spectrum UV absorber.13
In addition
to high concentrations of mixed tocopherols (vitamin E), it also contains carotenoides (vitamin A), all of which make raspberry seed oil an ideal choice for products aimed at consumers with highly active lifestyles who spend a significant amount of time outdoors. A far reaching study13
shows that the
most abundant fatty acids found in raspberry oil are linoleic, alpha-linolenic and oleic acids. The composition of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids is one that research shows reduces the effects of oxidative stress in skin.
the production of COX-I and COX-II Enzymes.14
Raspberries have been shown to inhibit Anti-inflammatory products like
ibuprofen and aspirin, inhibit COX-I and COX-II resulting in the reduction of pain associated with arthritis, gout and other inflammatory conditions.
Which oil to use? I have tried here to cover the major benefits and components of each of these seven oils, any of which offers the opportunity to enhance your latest men’s skin care product. However it is highly unlikely that marketing, the brand owner and final customer will be happy with the choice of just a single oil within the formulation. In order to help make the decision of which oils to use a little easier Statfold have put together our own cost effective blend of oils to target men’s skin care, our Men’s O- Mega 9 Blend utilises the benefits of blackseed oil, camelina oil & perilla oil blended with some grapeseed oil to give an optimum omega-9 EFA content.
Conclusion Cold pressed seed oils are as wide and varied in their properties as the plants and fruits from which they are obtained. They offer an easy and cost effective way in which to enhance male skin care products, and they add a different marketing angle, offer variations in skin feel and aesthetics while also enabling more tailored
Table9: Raspberry seed oil – typical composition. Acid names
C16:0 Palmitic C16:1 Palmitoleic
C16:3 Hexadecatetraenoic C17:0 Heptadecenoic C18.0 Stearic
C18:1 Oleic (Omega-9) C18:2 Linoleic (Omega-6)
Range (%) 2 - 5
≤ 0.5 ≤ 0.5 ≤ 0.5 ≤ 3.0 8 - 14
45 - 55
C18.3 Alpha linolenic (Omega-3) 28 - 36 C20.0 Arachidic C20:1 Icosenoic C22:0 Behenic
Raspberry seed PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC C22:1 Docosenoic
≤ 1.0 ≤ 0.5 ≤ 0.5 ≤ 0.5
Table 10: Men’s O-Mega 9 blend – typical composition.
Acid names C16:0 Palmitic C16:1 Palmitoleic
C16:3 Hexadecatetraenoic C17:0 Heptadecenoic C18.0 Stearic
C18:1 Oleic (Omega-9) C18:2 Linoleic (Omega-6)
Range (%) 5 - 15 <0.5 <0.5 <0.5 <5.0
15 – 25 45 - 55
C18.3 Alpha linolenic (Omega-3) 5 – 15 C20.0 Arachidic
<0.5
C20:2 Eicosandienic (Omega-9) <1.0 C22:1 Erucic (Omega-9) C24:1 Nervonic (Omega-9)
<1.0 <0.5
performance and claims. It may be time to try something a little
different and add one of the many interesting and under-utilised oils that Mother Nature (along with a little help from us) has been generous enough to give to us.
PC
References 1
http://tinyurl.com/hmnt4ua
2
http://tinyurl.com/hf5htrp 3 Kao JS, Garg A, Mao-Qiang M, et al. Testosterone perturbs epidermal permeability barrier homeostasis, Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2001; 116; 443-451.
4 Gilliver SC, Ashworth JJ, Mills SJ, Hardman MJ, Ashcroft GS. Androgens modulate the inflammatory response during acute wound healing, Journal of Cell Science 2006; 119; 722-732
5 Ashcroft GS, Mills SJ. Androgen receptor– mediated inhibition of cutaneous wound healing, Journal of Clinical Investigation 2002; 110; 615-624
6
www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:238020/ fulltext01.pdf
7 Simopoulos AP. Omega-3 fatty acids in health and disease and in growth and development. American Journal Clinical Nutrition 1991; 54: 438-63
8 Debowska R eta al. Folic Acid (Folacin) – New application of a Cosmetic Ingredient. Kosmetische Medizin 3/2005;
16-22.See comment in PubMed Commons below
9
www.livestrong.com/article/91784-omega-acne/ 10
http://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health- disease/skin-health/essential-fatty-acids
11 Osakabe N, Yasuda A, Natsume M, Yoshikawa T. Rosmarinic acid inhibits epidermal inflammatory responses: anticarcinogenic effect of Perilla frutescens extract in the murine two-stage skin model. Carcinogenesis. 2004 Apr;25(4):549-57
12 Nawar, Wassef W., 2001: Tocotrienols and omega-3 fatty acids in cranberry seed oil. FASEB Journal 15(5): A985, March 8
13 B. Dave Oomah, Stephanie Ladet, David V. Godfrey, Benoit Girard. Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil. Food Chemistry 69(2):187-193 · May 2000 14
www.red-raspberry.org
November 2017
©vvoe/Fotolia
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