MEN’S GROOMING 31
Table 1: Black seed oil – typical composition. Acid names
C16:0 Palmitic C18.0 Stearic
C18:1 Oleic (Omega-9) C18:2 Linoleic (Omega-6) C18.3 Linolenic (Omega-3)
Range (%) 8 – 15 ≤ 4.0
18 - 30 50 - 65 ≤ 1.0
C20:2 Eicosadienic (Omega-6) ≤ 3.5
Table 2: Black seed oil – mineral and vitamin. Mineral/Vitamins Protein Thiamin
Riboflavin Pyridoxine Niacin Folacin Calcium Iron
Copper Zinc
Phosphorus
Typical Quantity 208 ug/g 15 ug/g 1 ug/g 5ug/g
57 ug/g 610 IU/g
1.859 mg/g 105 ug/g 18 ug/g 60 ug/g
5.265 mg/g
Tutankhamun’s tomb. In Arabic, it is known as the ‘Seed of Blessing’.
For centuries, the black seed herb and oil has been used by millions of people in Asia, the Middle East, and Africa to support their health. It has been traditionally used for a variety of conditions and treatments related to respiratory health, stomach and intestinal health, kidney and liver function, circulatory and immune system support, and for general overall wellbeing. Black seed’s composition is very rich and diverse. Aside from its primary ingredient, crystalline nigellone, it contains 15 amino acids (including 8 of the 9 essential amino acids), proteins, carbohydrates, essential fatty acids (EFAs), vitamins A, B1, B2, C, folacin and niacin, as well as the minerals, calcium, potassium, iron, magnesium, selenium and zinc. Black seed typically contains over 58% of omega 6 EFAs and 24% of omega 9 EFAs.
Linoleic acid The major EFA within black seed, deficiencies of which can include atopic eczema, acne and psoriasis. Linoleic acid applied topically metabolises into ceramides and unsaturated omega-hydroxy fatty acids, restoring the moisture and barrier-integrity of the skin, it has an anti- inflammatory action and helps improve cellular signaling. The reduction in trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) aids relief of flaky, itchy, or rough skin and maintains smooth, moist skin.7
Folic acid
Folacin is an essential component that has been shown to improve the viability of primary human fibroblasts and stimulate their proliferation. Folic acid treatment has
November 2017
been shown to reduce the rate of UV induced DNA damage as well as decreasing TEWL without any negative effect on sebum production. All of which lead to improved skin elasticity and moisturisation.8
Calcium
A common element in the human body that is vital to the health of your bones, teeth and bodily organs; including the skin. Calcium plays a role in regulating many of the skin’s functions, and most calcium in the skin is found in the epidermis. Too little calcium in the diet can impair your skin’s health. Calcium in the epidermis helps the body regulate how fast it generates new skin cells and how quickly it sheds old ones. Skin that does not have enough calcium stored in the epidermis may appear fragile, thin and dry. The appearance is caused by the lack of calcium to spur new skin growth or to let go of dead skin cells.
The eight essential amino acids found in black seed are isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, tryptophan, and valine. The most relevant of these for male skin care are: Leucine: helps with the regulation of blood- sugar levels, the growth and repair of muscle tissue, growth hormone production, wound healing as well as energy regulation. Threonine: important for the formation of many proteins, tooth enamel, collagen, and elastin. It metabolises fat and prevents the build-up of fat in the liver, and is useful with intestinal disorders and indigestion. Trytophan: helps the body produce the B- vitamin niacin, which, in turn, helps the body produce serotonin, a remarkable chemical that acts as a calming agent in the brain and plays a role in sleep. Arginine: an important non-essential amino acid for infant growth. It plays an important role in cell division, the healing of wounds, removing ammonia from the body, immune function, and the release of hormones. The body also uses arginine to produce nitric oxide to relax blood vessels.
Camelina seed oil (Camelina sativa) Camelina belongs to the family of the ‘Brassicaceae’, the flower is also known as Gold of Pleasure. Its history dates back to the Iron Age where it was commonly used as an oil-supplying plant, widely grown until the 1940s. The oil is a rich golden colour with a characteristic green leafy odour, when used at very high levels the odour can be detected in the finished product. Camelina oil is a light dry oil that is readily absorbed by the skin. Increasing awareness of the value of oils with a low content of saturated fat and a high proportion of omega-3 fatty acids has seen a steady rise in the commercial growing of camelina. Omega-3 is known to be lacking in the western diet and is
Camelina Seed
strongly recommended as a nutritional supplement. Camelina oil is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs). The major components being alpha linolenic acid (omega-3) approx. 35%, linoleic acid (omega-6) approx 19% and oleic and icosenoic acids (omega-9) approx. 28% in total. These fatty acids are known to reduce cholesterol, and are good for heart and cardiovascular health. The omega-3 and omega-6 that naturally occur in camelina are present at an optimised ratio.
Omega-3 fatty acids
Omega-3 fatty acids, particularly eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) are essential for healthy skin and hair. EPA aids the regulation of oil production in the skin, helping prevent it from becoming dry and scaly. When your body is exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun harmful free radicals are generated, which can damage cells and lead to premature ageing. EPA can help prevent the release of enzymes that destroy collagen, warding off sagging skin and wrinkles. Because of
Table 3: Camelina seed oil – typical composition. Acid names
C16:0 Palmitic
C16:1 Palmitoleic C18.0 Stearic
C18:1 Oleic (Omega-9) C18:2 Linoleic (Omega-6)
Range (%) 4 – 6 ≤ 1.0 2 – 5
14 – 20 16 – 24
C18.3 Alpha linolenic (Omega-3) 30 – 40 C20.0 Arachidic C20:1 Icosenoic C22:0 Behenic C24:0 Lignoceric Vitamin E 100mg/100g
≤ 3.0
10 – 16 ≤ 1.0 ≤ 1.5
Table 4: Perilla seed oil – typical composition. Acid names
C16:0 Palmitic C18.0 Stearic
C18:1 Oleic (Omega-9) C18:2 Linoleic (Omega-6)
Range (%) 3 – 10 1 – 5
11 – 27 10 – 22
C18.3 Alpha linolenic (Omega-3) ≥ 44.0 PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
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