56 SKIN CARE Negative control Placebo pre-treatment 1% Ectoin® pre-treatment
without visible light irradiation
without visible light irradiation
without visible light irradiation
with visible light irradiation
with visible light irradiation
with visible light irradiation Figure 5: Nrf2 immunostaining of the negative control, placebo and 1% ectoine pre-treatment batch with and without visible light irradiation.
pollution components. This includes PAHs, heavy metals, nitrogen dioxide as well as particulate matter of all particle sizes. In a placebo-controlled in vivo study, the application of 1% ectoine formulation for 5 days, twice daily, resulted in a significant anti-pollution effect. The ectoine treated skin showed 48% less pollution induced damage compared to placebo treated skin. The skin was stressed with cigarette smoke as pollutant to induce oxidative stress to the skin in a standardised pollution chamber system (Fig 4). The anti-pollution efficacy was evaluated by analysis of barrier lipid oxidisation levels (measured by malondialdehyde, MDA) of samples from the skin surface. Furthermore, the anti-pollution efficacy of ectoine was demonstrated in a clinical study on human lungs of patients with COPD (chronic obstructive pulmonary disease) and particle induced asthma. Based on this and further data, ectoine is approved for therapeutic and preventative use in health care products for the treatment and prevention of pollution induced lung diseases like COPD and asthma.10
Visible light and its influence on skin Visible light has influence on our skin. Light affects the wellbeing, it can act against ‘winter depression’ and is able to control hormonal activities, for example those of the sleep hormone melatonin. Because of its cutaneous biologic effects,
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
light is used for the treatment of a variety of skin diseases and aesthetic conditions, demonstrating the positive effects of light, but everything also has its drawbacks. Although photobiologic studies of sunlight date back to 1671, most available studies focus on the negative effects of UV and the infrared radiation part of the sun spectrum. The effects of visible light have not been clearly elucidated until recently. Electromagnetic radiation is classified based on wavelength. The visible spectrum is the portion of electromagnetic radiation visible to the human eye, which responds to wavelengths from about 390 to 700 nm, and also includes blue light (450 to 495 nm). Various studies have been shown negative effects to be exerted by visible light radiation including erythema, pigmentation, thermal damage and free radical production. Visible light can also induce indirect DNA damage due to the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS).
Ectoine: visible light protection Most of the currently available UV-filters offer, if any, weak protection against visible light. Organic sunscreen agents usually show no protection against visible light, as their absorption spectrum is limited to UVB and UVA wavebands. Inorganic UV filters, such as iron oxide, titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide can offer some, but limited, visible light protection. However, the spectral protection of these agents varies according to their particle size. Larger
particles of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide can protect in the visible range. The limited effectiveness of UV filters, organic and inorganic, for visible light protection indicates the need for further protection substances and concepts.
Ectoine could be a solution to this
problem, as it has been shown to offer visible light protection properties in an independent scientific study by Botta et al. as well as in the latest placebo-controlled ex vivo study. Botta et al. (2008) have demonstrated that ectoine prevents oxidative damage in the skin induced by visible light irradiation. In this study, ectoine showed a protection level of up to 90% against the damaging impact of visible light on human skin cells.11 In an ex vivo study, human living skin explants were pre-treated with 1% ectoine and exposed to visible light (65J/cm2
).
Afterwards the parameters Nrf2 and MC1R were evaluated by immunostaining. Nrf2 is a key transcription factor in the
cellular response to oxidative damage induced by reactive oxygen species (ROS). Nrf2 content in the cell increases automatically, when the skin is exposed to visible light.
The study demonstrated the reduction of the cell´s stress response to oxidative stress due to ectoine pre-treatment. The presence of ectoine decreased the need of Nrf2 in the cell (Fig 5). Thereby ectoine protects the skin from visible light induced skin damage and photoageing. Visible light has been reported to induce
November 2017
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