66 SKIN CARE
designed tissue regeneration. Therefore, by a controlled production, CN-based biomaterials can harbour a predictable structure and ideal degradation rates suitable for skin ageing treatments and/or wound healing.
Market and study In the personal care products market, beauty masks are an increasing cosmetic segment with fast growth, with market values of $US 1.8 billion in China, $US1.1 billion in US, and 1.4 billion in EU, respectively.21
Both women and
Figure 4: The different penetration through the skin of the different-sized positive/negative nanoparticles.
men consider these products necessary to complete skin care routine treatments, also because they represent an excellent alternative to expensive professional beauty centre treatments. The beauty mask market can be classified in two general categories of products: gel/emulsions and non-woven tissues. With this study we considered the tissue masks only because, in our opinion, they may be greatly innovated with the support of bionanotechnology. In fact, effective beauty masks made by safe and innovative non-woven tissues, have been produced by electrospinning and casting technologies (Figs 1&2), and by the use of CNs and other biocompatible polymers and macromolecules, such as chitosan and lignin. Before being electrospun, CNs were bonded with lignin by the gelation method (Fig 3) to form block co-polymeric nanoparticles entrapping ascorbic sodium phosphate, melatonin and betaglucan. Depending on the methodology used, these nanoparticles may be produced at different sizes and may be charged negatively or positively on their external surface, in order to be released at different times and skin layers. When the micro/nanoparticles are positively charged, the skin penetration
is increased because of the electrostatic interaction between corneocytes and lipid lamellae. In contrast, this controlled diffusion release is not allowed to the electronegative particles (Fig 4). Thus, according to the methodology used and the fibres/active ingredients selected, it has been possible to make different kinds of beauty masks. The obtained electrospun tissues are
Additionally it was shown their anti-inflammatory activity due to the modulation of interleukines-8, and their protective and antibacterial activity due to an increase of the defensine synthesis (Fig 9).21–24
Mode of activity
The supposed mechanism of action of the mask applied on wet skin is due to the
reported in Figure 5, and the film obtained by the casting technology in Figure 6. From the first in vivo experimental data, it has been shown that these masks have the ability to improve the barrier function in damaged skin (Fig 7) by increasing skin protection, hydration and firmness. On the other hand, in vitro studies evidenced their capability to improve TEWL and to increase skin hydration (Fig 8).21,22
tissue characteristics. It may entrap and deliver the active ingredients at the level of different skin layers, while the enzyme chitotriosidase metabolises CN carrier giving rise to the production of acetyl glucosamine, glucosamine, and glucose. Acetyl glucosamine, reduced during ageing, could be used for the so- called glycosilation by the enzymatic process that attaches glycans to lipids, proteins, biopolymers and other molecules (Fig 10), while glucosamine may be utilised to synthesise glycosaminoglycans, modulating the ECM structure.18
Finally
glucose could be used as key energy source for the cells to stabilise the skin turnover, while lignin acts as antioxidant network because of the many polyphenolic units it is composed. Therefore, it is important to underline that these innovative non-woven tissues act both as carriers and active ingredients. Last but not least, the in-study innovative beauty masks are made by fibres which, obtained from waste materials, may be completely metabolised by the skin cells and the environment. For all these reasons, they are not only effective for aged and photoaged skin but also safe for sensitive skin, because they are free of preservatives, emulsifiers and other chemical ingredients.
Conclusion
In conclusion, according to the UNEP, EOCD and EU programmes,25-27
the
use of these beauty masks follows the guidelines of the green economy, being based on the utilisation of waste materials with a reduced consumption of water and energy. For all these reasons, their production and use could contribute to the human health, respecting also the environmental systems and the biodiversity of our planet.
PC n=10 100
50
0
0 24 6 12 18 24 Weeks
Figure 5: The CN-lignin electrospun non-woven tissue.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Figure 6: The CN-lignin film obtained by casting.
Figure 7: Improvement of skin barrier function by CN-HA (CN linked to hyaluronic acid) nanoparticles.
November 2017
Improvement (%)
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