SKIN CARE 55
with the water molecules of its surroundings and forms the so called ‘ectoine hydro complex’ (Fig 1). These complexes again surround cells, enzymes, proteins and other biomolecules by creating stabilising and protecting hydration shells and layers in the epidermis (Fig 2). The presence of ectoine protection layers in the epidermis leads to a decrease and prevention of negative cell response to stress factors like intracellular inflammation, e.g. the initiation of proinflammatory signalling cascades.4
Ectoine reduces the
damaging impact on cells by stabilising and protecting the cell membrane. This protection mechanism is able to shield the skin from various stress factors including, dryness, air pollution, UV-radiation and visible light and thus counteracts premature ageing.
Besides protecting cells and other biological structures, ectoine has a positive impact on the general condition of the cell. Cells show improved cell functions, like faster supply of protection proteins and self- defence reactions, when treated with ectoine.5
Skin barrier repair Ectoine restores and stabilises the stratum corneum barrier function and consequently increases skin hydration based on its scientifically proven protection and anti-inflammatory benefits. To demonstrate the positive impact of ectoine on the human skin barrier function, the influence of ectoine on the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was investigated. Five independent placebo controlled studies with different ectoine concentrations (1% – 5%) and in total over 80 patients were conducted. For all concentrations and test persons, including patients with very sensitive and atopic skin, the TEWL was significantly reduced compared to placebo due to treatment with ectoine. In a placebo controlled clinical study with 20 test persons with broken skin barrier, a formulation containing 1% ectoine was outperforming a cream with 0.25% hydrocortisone (‘Ebenol®
0.25%’ cream) regarding the reduction of TEWL and skin n Control n 1% Ectoin®
30 25 20 15 10 5 0
-5 Day 2 Day 3 Figure 3: Average values of TEWL improvement.
barrier repair. After 7 days of twice daily application, ectoine reduced the TEWL by 24%, repairing the stratum corneum barrier function (Fig 3).
The clinical study by Marini et al. with 65 patients with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis confirmed the efficacy of ectoine, with regard to the repair of barrier function, inflammation reduction and the consequent improvement of atopic skin conditions.6
Anti-pollution efficacy of ectoine In the past years, several epidemiological and mechanistic studies proved a connection between pollutants and accelerating wrinkles as well as pigment spot formation. Air pollutants may not only induce skin ageing but are also linked to causing or worsening acne, atopic dermatitis, eczema, allergic reactions or even skin cancer.7,8
Depending on the size
and depth of penetration of pollution particles, the effects on the skin are different.
Especially for airborne particulate matter (PM) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) negative influence on skin integrity has been shown. Mass and composition in urban environments tend to be divided into two principal groups: coarse particles and fine particles. The limit between them is fixed at PM2.5
usually in the fine mode (particles between PM0.1
and PM2.5
. Whereas most of the mass is ), the largest number of
particles (more than 90%) is found in the very small sizes, less than 100 nm resp. PM0.1
. 9 Day 5 Day 7 n Cream with 0.25% hydrocortisone
These ultrafine/nanosized particles
are considered the most harmful components of ambient PM, because they can penetrate the skin and even pass into our circulatory system. Furthermore ultrafine/nanosized particles are carrier for organic compounds. Actually, the highest level of concentration of toxic organic compounds, such as PAHs and heavy metals, is related to ultrafine particles (PM0.1
and smaller). PAHs are
among the most widespread organic pollutants and are frequently bound to the surface of combustion-derived PM including cigarette smoke. PAHs are highly lipophilic and thus easily penetrate the skin. These scientific facts clearly emphasise the need for a global approach in anti- pollution strategies. Formulation concepts, which only focus on the skin surface and do not consider the cellular level fall short to the mark. Strengthening and restoration of skin barrier seem to be an effective function in the prevention of pollution induced skin damage and is therefore also important not to neglect.
In several studies, ectoine demonstrated global and multilevel anti-pollution efficacy. The natural stress-protection molecule strengthens the skin barrier function and is capable to inhibit and reduce damage to skin and skin cells induced by various air
Figure 4: In vivo study design: smoke application on skin with standardised chamber system. November 2017 PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Improvement of TEWL (%)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96
