PRESERVATIVES 69


Next generation preservation options


n Jan Gauczinski, Cezanne Vielkanowitz, Nicolas Lasbistes – Clariant, Switzerland


The protection from microorganisms is absolutely necessary to ensure consumer safety during the shelf life and use of a cosmetic product. And with consultants estimating that by the year 2020 more than 50% of all consumers could live in tropical regions with humid climates,1


the demand


for particularly high quality cosmetics with a long shelf life will further increase. However, after fragrances, the


preservatives contained in cosmetics are the most common cause of skin complaints. Along with formaldehyde and parabens, isothiazolinone, used in shampoos and bubble baths, is often among the substances responsible for allergies and skin irritation.2,3


The demand for natural formulations


and therefore preservation accepted in natural standards is on the increase, but even natural ingredients such as tea tree oil can result in skin irritation and allergies, especially because they must often be used in relatively high doses in order to be effective.4,5


As the industry searches for effective additional preservation strategies, formulators face the challenge of balancing increasing consumer needs and their own needs with the limited current options available. Today’s consumers want effective, natural and safe products and ingredients they can trust on a long-term basis. Formulators need to meet regulatory requirements and market demands with alternative preservative systems that offer equivalent performance at comparable costs. Solutions that are effective at low concentration and offer ease of formulation are a priority.


Choosing the right preservative involves a wide range of considerations from formulation type and pH values, to the target spectrum of activity towards bacteria, yeast and molds, and regulations of the target region. Adding to the complexity, usually several different preservatives are required in order to adequately protect a formulation.


Crucial to the development of more November 2017 Abstract


The introduction of innovative alternatives to less consumer-accepted ingredients is expanding the available toolbox of preservation options for safer and more sustainable personal care applications. New additions to Clariant’s portfolio of liquid blends based on 100% renewable sorbitan caprylate offer an easy switch for formulators looking to replace specific ingredients and achieve a different claim or pursue green certification. They address consumer and formulator needs, supporting development of safe and natural products which are equally functional and cost effective. This article highlights the efficacy of the new options at low concentrations for rinse-off and leave-on, alongside an advance for challenging high aqueous formulations.


natural cosmetics, preservatives are often what hinders formulations in achieving green certification. To fill the gaps that exist for formulators in balancing extensive modern preservation needs, Clariant has extended its current portfolio of easy-to-handle liquid blends based on 100% renewable sorbitan caprylate. The latest developments presented in this article include those with an even higher sustainability profile and expand available alternatives for


formulators looking to replace specific ingredients and achieve a different claim and/or green certification.


Natural sorbitan caprylate basis Renewable, biodegradable sorbitan caprylate is a non-toxic, Ecocert and Cosmos approved booster of preservative systems. It is China IECIC listed. The Environmental Defense Fund (EDF)6 recently placed it top in its Preservation Innovation Project (PIP) rankings assessing


Table 1: Sorbitan caprylate: synergism with preservatives (MIC in %). Velsan SC >1


Pseudomonas aeruginosa Staphylococcus aureus Penicillium minioluteum


Velsan SC 0.25


Velsan SC 0.2


Sorbic Acid 0.2


Phenoxyethanol 0.25


Benzyl Alcohol 0.25


50:50 blend 0.25


50:50 blend 0.032


95:5 blend 0.1


PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC


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