SKIN CARE 65
Fully-biodegradable and skin-friendly beauty masks
n Pierfrancesco Morganti – University of Naples/Mavi Sud; Marco Palombo, Tommaso Anniboletti – CTO Hospital; Francesco Carezzi, Maria Luisa Nunziata, Gianluca Morganti – Mavi Sud, Italy
A better understanding of the skin’s physiological and biological processes, and a deeper knowledge of biomaterials and bio-nanotechnology, made possible the progress in developing innovative bioengineered non-woven tissues.1–4 The majority of these new dressings, based on the use of natural, biodegradable, environmentally- and skin-friendly polymers, opened new windows for optimising the skin reparative processes, modulating the skin microbioma5
and the
epidermal cellular turnover by a slow- release of active ingredients. Thus a global skin regeneration is promoted.6–8 The natural fibres used to make these
new dressings seem to be able to modulate the skin inflammatory conditions, acting also as regulators of both the epidermal lipids synthesis and extracellular matrix (ECM) organisation.9–11
Among these fibres,
chitin nanofibrils (CNs), extracted from crustacean waste, industrially produced by our group by a low water and energy consumption process, seem useful to modulate the exuberant wound healing and premature skin ageing during the re-epithelialisation and regeneration processes.12,13
CNs, in fact, seem able to normalise the barrier function, regulating the cytokines cascade and the synthesis of both lamellae and collagen14–16.
CNs are catabolised by
chitotriosidase enzymes, present both in the environment and into the human body17 to produce glucosamine and acetyl glucosamine. These glucoside-derived molecules are the main components of glycosaminoglycans and proteoglycans, necessary for the glycosilation processes. Thus CNs having the same structure of ECM may be used also to produce non- woven tissues18
characterised by their
capability to facilitate cellular adhesion and skin cell proliferation. Additionally, due to their electropositive character, CNs have been complexed with the electronegative lignin, to obtain block co-polymeric nanoparticles entrapping different active ingredients useful for skin protection and
November 2017 Doctor blade Casting the slurry onto a support* 5.Drying by IR irradiation 6. Taking off the film Figure 1: The electrospinning methodology.
Figure 2: The casting methodology.
regeneration. These specific nanoparticles, embedded into cosmetic emulsions or non- woven tissues have shown whitening19
and
photo-protection effectiveness.20 Moreover cross-linked with different
nanofibres they can generate biocompatible scaffolds that exhibit
increased tensile strength, elastic modulus, water retention capacity, porosity and pliability, facilitating the biological effects of seeded cells. Thus, the cell-seeded scaffolds, obtained by the designed polymer blends and processes, can be implanted into the skin to initiate the
Figure 3: The gelation method to obtain the block-co-polymeric nanoparticles. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
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