BIOTECHNOLOGY
Fermentedα-Bisabolol for natural soothing
Celeste Xu - Aneco ABSTRACT
With the increasing life pressure of contemporary people, changes in the living environment and the increase in the frequency of use of face masks, the skincare market for sensitive skin is growing rapidly. The market also puts forward higher and newer requirements for raw materials. α-Bisabolol is one of the most sesquiterpene compounds in nature. It can protect the skin from daily stress. It has anti-inflammatory and soothing, anti-bacterial, anti-oxidant and whitening effects, which has a huge market prospect in the cosmetic industry, especially in the field of skin care for sensitive skin. In order to comply with this trend, Aneco has developed α-Bisabolol (product name: BioSyn- Bisabolol) by using advanced sustainable biotechnology, which is also in line with the development trend of green/natural, high-end cosmetic raw materials.
Sensitive skin refers to a hyperreactive state of the skin under physiological or pathological conditions. It is a complex process involving blood vessels, nerve conduction, and immune inflammation. It is manifested by symptoms such as itching, burning, and tingling, mainly on the face. Currently, the classification methods for sensitive skin mainly include BSTI (Baumann Skin Type Indicator) skin classification, Pons-Guiraud classification, Muizzuddin classification and so on.1 According to literature reports, the
proportion of Asian women with sensitive skin is about 40%-56%, and the proportion of women with sensitive skin in China is about 36.1%.2 With the full opening of the era of functional
skin care, the sensitive skin care industry is becoming ever more popular. The improvement of consumer awareness, population diversity and the segmentation of the functional skin care market will also continue to promote the future growth of sensitive skin care.3 However, the causes of sensitive muscles are
relatively complex. The causes involved in the current research include impaired skin barrier function, inflammatory state of the epidermis, abnormal skin sensory nervous system, etc., and these causes often promote and involve each other, leading to a bad cycle of sensitive skin problems, as shown in Figure 2.4
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Natural soothing agent α-Bisabolol α-Bisabolol is the main active ingredient of the medicinal plant chamomile, one of the most abundant sesquiterpene compounds in nature, and has been used in traditional medicine for hundreds of years. α-Bisabolol has anti- inflammatory, soothing effects and can protect the skin from daily stress. Coupled with its good stability, high permeability, and skin compatibility, it is
83.50 Growth rate index 1.75%
especially suitable for products with sensitive skin, baby care, and after-sun applications. In addition, its fragrance is light and pleasant, and it is also a kind of fixative with good stability. Since α-Bisabolol has two chiral centres,
there are four stereoisomers (Figure 3). In nature, the L-isomer (-)-α-Bisabolol has significant physiological activity. Currently, according to different sources,
α-Bisabolol can be divided into synthetic sources and natural sources. α-Bisabolol from synthetic sources generally uses farnesol as the initial material, and is purified by rectification to finally obtain racemic (±)-α-Bisabolol. Natural sources of α-Bisabolol are generally extracted from Brazilian shrubs (Candeia), but limited by the scarcity of raw materials, the price is expensive.
The efficacy of α-Bisabolol The efficacy and mechanism of α-Bisabolol mainly include the following aspects, including anti-inflammatory, soothing, antibacterial, antioxidant and whitening effects.
2021 2022
Figure 1: Sales (in 100 million yuan) and growth rate of China’s sensitive skin care market. Source: 2023 white paper on sensitive skin anti-aging trends in China
Anti-inflammatory and soothing activity
The mechanism of inflammation is complex, in which chemical messengers play an important role. An important class of chemical messengers
October 2023 PERSONAL CARE
97
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