60 HYGIENE Placebo
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0
Excellent ■ good ■ discreet ■ Sufficient ■ Insufficient ■ 0.5% Evosina GP Green
1% Evosina GP Green
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0
Benchmark
Figure 5: Improvement of sebum balance after application of a placebo shampoo, shampoo with 0.5% Evosina GP Green, 1% Evosina GP Green, benchmark (rinse-off application)
The results obtained by the preliminary
study showed that the variables scalp redness, desquamation and sebaceous balance remained approximately unchanged at all observation times in the group treated with placebo shampoo, while tended to improve over time after using the shampoo with the active ingredient at both concentrations (0.5-1%) and shampoo with benchmark. No important differences were observed in the three groups. Evosina GP Green, at both tested
concentrations, showed a marked improvement of scalp redness with results comparable to the benchmark (Figures 1-2). Evosina GP Green, at both tested concentrations, showed optimal results in reducing dandruff flakes both as size and numerosity, comparable with the benchmark (Figures 3-4).
Sebum balance (test rinse-off) Investigating the effect of the active ingredient on sebum balance, good results have been obtained as well. At both tested concentrations, the product showed to help in rebalancing the right level of sebum, in comparison with both placebo and benchmark (Figure 5). Along with this phenomenon, a series of
sensory self-evaluations were collected by the enrolled subjects about the reduction of the itching sensation in the scalp after the first shampoo (T01-30 minutes); the improvement of the itching sensation with repeated use of the product (t45-48 hours); the reduction of scalp redness (t45-48 hours); the reduction of dandruff both on hair and clothing (t45-48 hours); the improvement of hair and scalp appearance (t45- 48 hours).
PERSONAL CARE October 2023 Concerning all the questions, a positive
pleasantness and effect were perceived already after the first use of the products as well as after 45 days of treatment. Particularly, the shampoo with the lowest percentage of the active ingredient turned out with the longest lasting effect, relieving the itching sensation up to 36 hours after washing.
Applications Suggested formulations with both sodium usnate powder and solution can include deodorant roll-on, sprayable deodorant cream and solution, intimate hygiene products, acne-prone skin treatments, anti-dandruff shampoo, toothpastes and mouthwashes. They are suggested to be used at a dosage
range of 0.01-0.02% of the powder and 0.1-1% of the liquid version. Evosina 100 and Evosina GP Green are both suitable for natural cosmetic products. They can be both used in cosmetic
formulation, incorporating the specialties at the end of the process, before reducing pH at the value needed. Before adding in formulation, sodium usnate powder must be pre-solubilized in solvents, such as alcohol, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol.
Conclusion Evosina specialties perfectly meet today’s expectation of natural cosmetic standard, being in the meantime a highly effective and safe antibacterial active ingredient. In vitro studies have shown the capability of the sodium salt derivative to inhibit the main bacteria involved in different skin, hair and oral discomforts.
Clinical tests have also shown the
performance of Evosina GP Green to visibly reduce desquamation of the scalp, relieve the irritation and itching sensation of both dry and greasy dandruff, helping to also improve the scalp sebum balance, with an immediate and long-lasting effect.
References 1. Maugini E. Manuale di botanica Farmaceutica 6th Ed. Piccin. 1983
2. Ingolfsdottir K. Usnic acid. Phytochemistry. 2002 Dec; 61(7):729-36
3. Rochleder F, Heldt W. Liebigs Annalen. 48, 11 (1843)
4. Fontana M, Proserpio G. L’acido usnico come preservante naturale, deodorante e dermopurificante nei sistemi cosmetici. EPPOS 315-336, 1974
5. Shibata S, Miura Y, Ukita C, Tamura T. Chem Abstr. 45, 6691/2 (1951)
6. Erba E, Pocar D, Rossi LM. New esters of R-(+)-usnic acid. ll Farmaco. 1998, 53, 718
7. Carpenter PL. Microbiology. 1975. 8. James et al. Microbiological and biochemical origins of human axillary odour. FEMS Microbiology Ecology. 83 (2013) 527-540
9. Lodetti G, Cigola P. In vitro product safety evaluation: a citotoxicity study on oral care formulations containing usnic acid, a natural anti-microbial agent extracted from tree lichen. Giornale Italiano di Microbiologia Medica Odontoiatrica e Clinica. Vol. IV N° 2, 2000 p. 67-72
10. Ribar B et al. Crystal structure of usnic acid sodium salt 2 1/2 hydrate. Journal of Crystallographic and Spectroscopic. Vol. 23, 1993
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PC
T0-30min T0-48h T01-30min T01-48h T0-30min T28-30min T0-48h T28-48h T01-30min T45-30min T01-48h T45-48h T28-30min T28-48h T45-30min T45-48h T0-30min T0-48h T01-30min T01-48h T0-30min T28-30min T0-48h T28-48h T01-30min T45-30min T01-48h T45-48h T28-30min T28-48h T45-30min T45-48h
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