SUN CARE Control ■ Valida S+ ■
25.00 24.00 23.00 22.00 21.00
20.00 19.00
53
T0 (initial)
T1
T2 Time (hours)
Figure 9: The moisture percentage measured in the skin after 0, 1, 2, 4, 8 and 24 hours after application of both a product base containing the fibrillated cellulose and control
In order to develop high SPF products,
uniform dispersion and maintained stability of UV filters throughout the lifetime of the product is essential, although it is difficult to achieve due to the complex nature of UV filters. Moreover, it is difficult to achieve a high
SPF without compromising the aesthetics of the sunscreen product. Valida S+, a natural and biodegradable fibrillated cellulose supplied by Sappi, can be used as an alternative to synthetic polymers and potential microplastics as a stabiliser of sun care formulations. The fibrillated cellulose can also act as an
SPF booster of mineral and hybrid mineral and chemical sunscreens, allowing the reduction of UV filter concentration in the formulation while maintaining the level of protection desired. The reduced concentration of UV filters will in turn improve aesthetics and spreading ability of the formulation while maintaining little to no white cast on the skin.
References 1. Research and Markets. Sun Care Products: Global Strategic Business Report. March 2023.
https://www.researchandmarkets. com/reports/1206778
Right Forearm Wrist
Thumb
Application area 20mm x 40mm
Control Sample Valida S+ Sample
Hyaluronic Acid Sample Elbow
Figure 10: The tested areas from the corneometric study
www.personalcaremagazine.com
TABLE 1: THE COMPOSITION OF THE TWO BASES USED IN THE CORNEOMETRIC STUDY
INCI
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride
Dicaprylyl Carbonate Aqua
Glycerin
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
Valida S+ PC
Control % w/w
2 5
2.5 7.5
79 3
1 0
Valida S+ % w/w
2 5
2.5 7.5
74 3
1 5
2. Expert Market Research. Global Mineral Sunscreen Market Share 2023-2028. https://
www.expertmarketresearch.com/reports/ mineral-sunscreen-market
3. Abamba G, Woodruff J. Society of Cosmetic Scientists Distant Learning Diploma Module 2, Unit 16, Skincare Products, 75-77. 2022 4. Clean Suncare: Choose the Right
Thumb Left Forearm Wrist
Application area 20mm x 40mm
Control Sample Valida S+ Sample
Hyaluronic Acid Sample Elbow
Mineral UV Dispersion. Cosmetics and Toiletries. 13 August 2020. https://www.
cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulas- products/sun-care/article/21835826/ aprinnova-15304-clean-suncare-choose- the-right-mineral-uv-dispersion
5. Hanay C, Osterwalder U. Challenges in Formulating Sunscreen Products. Curr. Probl. Dermatol. 93-111 (55), 2021
6. Sohn M, Hechem A, Herzog B, Imanidis G. Film thickness frequency distribution of different vehicles determines sunscreen efficacy. Journal of Biomedical Optics. 19 (11) 2014
7. Special Chem. Formulating Sunscreens and Improving Performance & Skin Feel of High SPF Products. 14 February 2022. https://
cosmetics.specialchem.com/tech-library/ article/improving-performance-and-skin- feel-of-spf-products
8. UL Prospector. Boost SPF with These Tips and Technologies. 7 December 2018. https://
knowledge.ulprospector.com/9102/pcc-spf- boosting-technologies-tips/
9. European Chemicals Agency. Microplastics.
https://echa.europa.eu/hot-topics/ microplastics
10. Nivea. 7 Benefits Of Using Non Greasy Sunscreen.
https://www.nivea.co.uk/advice/ sun/non-greasy-sunscreen
11. Mintel. India oblivious to sun safety: 65% of consumers don’t use sunscreen. 1 August 2019.
https://www.mintel.com/ press-centre/65-of-consumers-dont-use- sunscreen/
12. Mintel. Sunscreen fountain of youth: Use of sunscreen for anti-aging purposes increased 25% from 2021-22. 7 March 2023. https://
www.mintel.com/press-centre/sunscreen- fountain-of-youth-use-of-sunscreen- for-anti-aging-purposes-increased-25- from-2021-22/
October 2023 PERSONAL CARE
T4
T8
T24
Moisture Percentage Measured
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