90 NATURALS Benefits Skin Care: Similar Sensorial as D5 Organic UV Filters Solubilization
Offer Similar Spreadability to Petro-Derived Alternative
Antimicrobial Effect
Incorporation of water in solid cosmetics (i.e. Water Based Lipstick)
Nail Polish Remover Fragrance Solubilizer
Hair Care: Better performance than Dimethicone 350cPs on Smoothness, Film Formation, Alignment & Oily Residual
Figure 2: NXT SOLV Line –key benefits
in these ingredients, using ASTM D6866-20 Method B showed results as high as 100% for ethyl levulinate and ethyl levulinate glycerol ketal.4 Esters and ketals of levulinic acid play a
critical role in reduction of carbon emission and dependence on fossil fuels (Figure 1).5
Midpoint Method6
Analysis performed using ReCiPe 2016 showed that the carbon
footprint of ethyl levulinate is 0.347 kg CO2 kg in comparison to 4.14 kg CO2
-eq/kg for
petrochemical-based propylene glycol and 2 to 5 kg CO2
-eq/kg for any typical fossil-fuel
derived solvents. Furthermore, the environmental fate
testing using OECD 301F or ASTM E1720-01 displayed readily biodegradable or ultimately biodegradable profiles. These ingredients are non-toxic to aquatic life and are included in the US EPA Safer Chemical Ingredient List (SCIL) as safer than traditional ingredients.7 The NXT SOLV line of products are not only
environmentally friendly but also do not contain animal products, conform to Leaping Bunny programme operated in the US and Canada, which requires no animal testing and do not contain any palm oil-derived materials. Derivatives of levulinic acid are aligned
-eq/ ✔✔✔ ✔✔✔ ✔✔✔ ✔✔✔ ✔✔ NXT SOLV 220 NXT SOLV 320 NXT SOLV 420 NXT SOLV 520 ✔✔ ✔✔✔ ✔✔
✔✔✔ ✔✔✔ ✔✔✔ ✔✔✔ ✔✔✔
✔✔✔ ✔✔✔ ✔✔✔
1.00E+06 1.00E+05 1.00E+04 1.00E+03 1.00E+02 1.00E+01
1.00E+00
E.coli
P.aeruginosa
S.aureus
A.brasiliensis
C.albicans B.cepacia Figure 3: Microbial properties of NXT SOLV
with the principles of green chemistry. The high conversion and selectivity lead to extremely low amounts of byproducts in synthesis of these ingredients. The synthesis itself is less hazardous
due to low temperature and pressure used. The reaction uses no solvents and utilizes exothermicity as part of the total energy demand. All products and intermediates have applications in various industries and the chemical bonds of esters and ketals are opened and turned into hydrophilic compounds what accelerates biodegradation. All these characteristics, in combination with
the natural origin indexes of 0.56 to 1, make them an excellent sustainable alternative to traditional solvents.
Can traditional solvents be replaced by green alternatives in cosmetics? Experiments performed by Presperse Corporation and affiliated Sumitomo Research and Development groups showed that NXT SOLV line of products has a wide range of applications in cosmetic and personal care formulations including skin care, organic filters solubilization, antimicrobial effect, fragrance solubilizers and applications in hair care (Figure 2).
Filter paper (Whatman #2)
Result: Low Test Material NXT SOLV 220 NXT SOLV 320 NXT SOLV 420 High NXT SOLV 520
Spreading area (mm2
) 4270 3850 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 2280 3800 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2240 3070 Test Material Diisopropyl Adipate (DIA)
Spreading area (mm2
) 3940
0.2 mL of the sample 10 min
Antimicrobial properties Cosmetic products contain various preservatives to prevent microbial growth. These ingredients in cosmetic preparations, when applied on skin, might cause side effects, for instance decrease in collagen secreted from human dermal fibroblasts.8 Certain solvents help to create the
environment hostile towards microorganisms what could be a greener choice in comparison to the traditional preservatives.9
In order to
evaluate antimicrobial activity and efficacy, NXT SOLV products were evaluated using USP 51 method by Microchem Laboratory, Round Rock, Texas, USA. E. coli, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, A. brasiliensis, C. albicans and B. cepacian were inoculated and results read at day seven, day 14 and day 28. The results showed high antimicrobial
effectiveness against microorganisms at the early stage of experiment (Figure 3).
Ther spreading area was measured (n=5)
Sensory profile One of the important characteristics of personal care products is as sensory profile. That initial impression of a texture is what can influence consumers’ market decisions but it also plays a role in the perception of efficacy and can actively contribute to increased skin benefits. The NXT SOLV were tested for sensory profile using individual ingredients as well as in skin and hair formulations. Spreadability of NXT SOLV individual
ingredients was performed using the Whatman #2 paper. 0.2mL of the sample was applied at the centre of a Whatman disc. The products were allowed to spread for ten minutes. After that time, the locations to which
emollient has spread where marked off and diameters were measured. The spreading area was calculated. Five replicates were run per product and two measurements of diameters were taken. NXT SOLV ingredients evaluated, proved to offer great spreadability that was remarkably similar to fossil fuel-derived alternatives (Figure 4). Other sensory properties of NXT SOLV
Figure 4: Spreadability results for NXT SOLV products PERSONAL CARE October 2023
were tested in formulations. NXT SOLV formulations were compared against D5 (cyclopentasiloxane) and Dimethicone 350, for skin and hair formulations, respectively.
www.personalcaremagazine.com Time Zero ■ Day 7■ Day 14 ■ Day 28 ■
Spreadability
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