46 SUN CARE
900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0
0% Concentration GMB
Figure 6: The improved purification that was determined by measuring the amount of hydrogen peroxide. In small amounts, hydrogen peroxide is beneficial to purify the skin. It helps eliminate microorganisms, clean damaged skin cells, and keep the cell clean after a sunburn. The unique property of purification is shown in this plot. With 0.10% GMB, there is more hydrogen peroxide present. Thus, giving evidence of a more purified skin
Surprisingly, if the skin is exposed daily to
the sun for just five to fifteen minutes, collagen destruction is significantly increased and therefore is the MMP production. This highlights again the importance of UV protection. Since MMP concentrations are increased during sun exposure, it can be used as a biomarker; a molecule used to assess the risk of premature ageing. Three types of MMPs were used as the biomarker for follow-up: MMP-1, MMP-2, and MMP-9.4 A concentration of 0.06% GMB results in a
decreased gene expression of MMPs (Figure 5). This implies that the quality of collagen is maintained during UV exposure, meaning that the skin remains beautiful.
Skin purification An activity often neglected is the purification of the skin after UV exposure. The skin needs to be purified for three reasons. Firstly, damaged skin allows microorganisms to penetrate easier into the skin. Secondly, cells with DNA damage beyond
repair need to be properly disposed of, otherwise, they mutate. Thirdly, UV light transforms the skin into a battlefield with wounded skin cells. Plasma is leaking out of the cell, destroyed proteins are scattered all over. All this debris needs to be removed to keep the skin healthy. Peroxides are an example of ROS and
until now, ROS was described as dangerous. However, a controlled and targeted use of ROS is necessary for cellular processes.5 Moreover, immune cells use these
peroxides as ammunition to combat invading pathogens and to eliminate debris and skin cells with DNA damage beyond repair. A comparison between 0.10% GMB and placebo showed that immune cells produced more purifying peroxides with GMB (Figure 6). So, GMB offers a unique purification that ensures that skin processes run smoothly, resulting in clean and elegant skin.
PERSONAL CARE October 2023 0.10% UV ■ UV+ GMB ■
80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
80% -38% 50%
Time (month)
Figure 7: The effect of GMB on cell survival. During UV exposure, many skin cells undergo a regulated suicide procedure called apoptosis. This minimizes the chance that a cell turns into a cancer cell. Relative to no UV, much fewer skin cells die by apoptosis with GMB treatment. This shows that the skin is overall more prepared against UV radiation
DNA repair Another big perk is that the immune cell gets additional help from GMB in its attempt to repair the DNA damage. GMB supports the immune cells to protect the skin cells from cell death and DNA mutations. This is necessary as the keratinocytes
increase the production of α-MSH, and ET-1 significantly. α-MSH is very important in the early antioxidant responses to UV. Therefore, an increased α-MSH level reduces oxidative cell damage.6 Both α-MSH and ET-1 act as survival factors for the melanocyte.7
When the DNA
of the melanocyte is severely damaged, the cell stops proliferating and decides whether it can still repair the DNA, or it will undergo apoptosis.
With the increased level of α-MSH and
ET-1, the melanocyte will choose more often to repair the DNA. The cell death of the keratinocytes is significantly decreased in the presence of 0.06% GMB after irradiation of UV for five hours (Figure 7). Finally, the immune cells also increase the
production of glutathione in the presence of GMB. Glutathione is one of the most powerful endogenous antioxidants. In situations where there is so much ROS
present from the UV light, it is a welcome gift to have more molecules to scavenge the ROS. This means that GMB helps in protecting and repairing skin cells.
Conclusion
When all the benefits from Glucose-Mannose Biopolymer are combined with the use of sunscreen, the result is a holistic approach to ultimate sun protection. GMB improves communication between all protective skin cells.
This innovative UV protection approach
results therefore in a 3D-defence strategy; sunscreens provide the first layer of protection, and GMB boosts the protection deeper within
the whole skin. GMB is capable of improved tanning, purification of the skin, and promoting DNA repair. On top of that, collagen is also protected, and the skin will be more beautiful in the long term. This 3D-defence system is very relevant in these days when there is an increased UV exposure due to the current climate status. However, GMB is a very useful ingredient
in day creams or make-up to provide additional skin protection. So, GMB is the ingredient to bring any cosmetic formulation to the next level and give the skin a kiss of beauty.
References 1. Del Bino S, Sok J, Bessac E, Bernerd F. Relationship between skin response to ultraviolet exposure and skin color type. Pigment Cell Res. 2006; Dec;19(6):606–14
2. Ary G, Isher JF, Eng Z, Uan Q, Ang W, Ubhash S et al. Pathophysiology of premature skin aging induced by ultraviolet light. N. Engl. J. Med. 1997, Nov; 13;337(20):1419-28
3. Gonzaga ER. Role of UV Light in Photodamage, Skin Aging, and Skin Cancer Importance of Photoprotection. Am. J. Clin. Dermatol. Vol. 10, 2009
4. Kähäri VM, Saarialho-Kere U. Matrix metalloproteinases in skin. Experimental Dermatology. Vol. 6, 1997. p. 199–213
5. Del Bino S, Sok J, Bessac E, Bernerd F. Free Radicals, Antioxidants in Disease and Health. Pigment Cell Res. 2007; 19(6): 606–14
6. Song X, Mosby N, Yang J, Xu A, Abdel-Malek Z, Kadekaro AL. α-MSH activates immediate defense responses to UV-induced oxidative stress in human melanocytes. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Res. 2009, Dec; 22(6):809–18
7. Kadekaro AL, Kavanagh RJ, Wakamatsu K, Ito S, Pipitone MA, Abdel-Malek AZ. Cutaneous photobiology. The melanocyte vs. the sun: who will win the final round? Pigment Cell Res. 2003, Oct;16(5):434-47
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PC
Amont of H2
O2
Compared to no UV (%)
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