NATURALS Combability Oily Residue
5 4 3 2 1
0 Volume Increase Smoothness Thickness Easy to apply Grease Integrity of Shape
10 8 6 4 2 0
Gloss Gloss Sticking
6 5 4 3 2 1
0
91
Shine
Anti-Frizz Effect Dimethicone 350 cPs ■ NXT SOLV 320 ■
Figure 5: NXT SOLV hair sensory study In hair formulations, NXT SOLV 320
presented similar compatibility to control, but showed significant increase in shine, smoothness and volume, and showing lower oily residue, at the same time (Figure 5). Improved sensory profile of NXT SOLV 320
was also observed in skin formulations, with higher spreadability and cohesiveness, and less greasy feel at the time of application. Two minutes after the application, NXT SOLV 320 showed much lower amount of residue, as compared to the control (Figure 6).
Sustainable solvents efficacy as a nail polish remover The most widely used chemical in nail polish remover in professional salons of North America, including California, is acetone. There are many alternatives to the acetone, but they do not work well, in general.10
Thus,
the search for an effective greener and safer alternative continues. Since NXT SOLV are greener alternative
to many solvents, their nail polish removal potential was studied. Nail polish was applied onto the surface.
Fifteen drops of dilution of various solvents were placed onto a dry polish. Next, cotton swabs with solvents were applied manually, using the same force and speed. Strong nail polish remover properties were
seen for number of ingredients from NXT SOLV line as shown on Figure 7, with the nail polish remover formulation having 60% ethanol and 50% NXT SOLV 520 demonstrating the best performance.
Figure 6: NXT SOLV skin sensory study
Conclusion As consumers became much more conscious about the environmental and social issues, the search for more sustainable and greener ingredients continues. Cosmetic ingredient companies and brands are dedicated to protecting the environment and reducing their carbon footprint, to hold the increase of average temperature to below 2°C above pre-industrial levels. The current ambition is to pursue the efforts to limit that temperature increase to 1.5°C.11 Commitment to support UN Global
Compact Sustaianble Development Goals (SDGs) requires companies to reduce carbon emissions not only in Scope 1 and Scope 2 but also within supply chain for Scope 3. Implementing sustainable ingredients in cosmetics formulations might be a future solution to reducing carbon footprint in companies supply chain. This article demonstrates that NXT SOLV
products, offering significant reductions of CO2
emissions, are highly effective substitutes
of fossil fuel derived ingredients in personal care. These ingredients meet all sustainable expectations related to the feedstock, green chemistry principles and lifecycle assessments while maintaining necessary product efficacy from antimicrobial to sensory properties, and a wide range of applications, from skin to hair and nails.
References 1. ISO 16128. Cosmetics - Guidelines on Technical Definitions and Criteria for Natural
and Organic Cosmetic Ingredients and Products. 2016
2. FTC Green guides. Green Guides | Federal Trade Commission (
ftc.gov)
3. Amudhavalli V, Sharma P, Pulidindi IN, Gedanken A. Levulinic Acid is a key Strategic Chemical from Biomass. Catalyst. 2022, 12(8), 909
4. ASTM D6866-20 Standard Test Methods for Determining the Biobased Content of solid, Liquid, and Gaseous Samples Using Radiocarbon Analysis
5. Block S. Levulinates as Coalescing Agents for Waterborn Coatings. American Coating Conference, 5 April 2022
6. National Institute for Public Health and the Environment. ReCiPe 2016 v1.1 – A harmonized life cycle impact assessment method at midpoint and endpoint level
7. Safer Chemical Ingredients List | US EPA 8. Patrycja G, Rosinska A, Wozniak S, Boguszewska-Czubara A, Bernasiuk A, Matosiuk D. Effect of Commonly Used Cosmetic Preservatives on Healthy Human Skin Cells. Cells. 2023, 12(7):1076
9. Lens C, Malet G, Cupferman S. Antimicrobial activity of Butyl acetate, Ethyl acetate and Isopropyl alcohol on undesirable microorganisms in cosmetic products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2016, 38 (5):476-480
PC
10. Wolf K, Safer Alternative Nail Polish Removers for Salons and Consumers. Institute for Research and Technical Assistance. February 2016
11. COP 21 Paris Agreement, 2015
Spreadability
Cohesiveness
Amount of Residue NXT SOLV 320 ■ NXT SOLV 520 ■ D5 ■
Stickiness
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
4
Figure 7: Nail polish remover properties of NXT SOLV. A: 100% ethanol. B: 60% ethanol and 40% NXT SOLV 320. C: 60% ethanol and 40% NXT SOLV 420. D: 60% ethanol and 40% NXT SOLV 520
www.personalcaremagazine.com October 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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