32 SUN CARE
on the marketplace. Boosters do not fall under the same guidelines as UV filters since they are not the main active ingredient responsible for UV protection. They generally fall under the same guidelines as traditional cosmetic ingredients; required safety and efficacy testing prior to International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) and Chemical Abstract Service (CAS) number registration. Boosters have been created from a variety of sources, such as plants, algae, bacteria, fungi, lichens, fruits, and biomass.20-26 Generally, the SPF-boosting capability
comes from the production of pigments or phenolic compounds that can either block or absorb the sun’s UV energy. These compounds can either be innate to the organism or upregulated due to exposure to conditions that demand production from UV radiation, free-radicals, or environmental toxins.27-32 Recently, a novel SPF booster has been
derived from Bacillus pumilus SAFR-32, an extremely UV resistant organism. Originally isolated from an ultraclean spacecraft assembly facility, this organism’s spores were found to survive normally harmful UVC radiation exposure.33 The organism was then sent to the
International Space Station (ISS) as part of a NASA Research Announcement Research Opportunities in Space and Earth Sciences (NRA ROSES) EXPOSE grant where the organism was placed outside of the ISS and exposed to various form of space radiation for 18 months aboard the EXPOSE module.34-37 When brought back down to Earth, the
Bacillus pumilus SAFR-32 strain exhibited enhanced UV resistance. An extract of this organism, identified as Bacillus Lysate, was tested for its SPF-boosting capabilities.
TABLE 1: SPF 30 SUNSCREEN Phase Ingredients / INCI
A Octocrylene (PARSOL® 340) Homosalate (PARSOL® HMS)
Ethylhexyl Salycilate (PARSOL® EHS) Avobenzone (PARSOL® 1789) Caprylic Capric Triglycerides
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate
Cetearyl alcohol (and) Ceteareth 20 (Procol L CS-20-D) Cetyl alcohol
C15-19 Alkane (Emogreen L-19) B Deionized water
Dimethicone (XIAMETER® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10 cSt) EDTA (Protacide Na3 EDTA)
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (Euxyl PE 9010) Carbomer (Carbopol® 940 Polymer) Glycerin
Polysorbate 20 Propanediol (Zemea) Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Tegosoft PC 41) C
Sodium Hyaluronate (and) water (Actique™ Hyal 1%) Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Water (Floraesters K-20W) Triethanolamine 99% Tocopherol clear
11. Jedwards Figure 1: The suppression/degradation mechanism of procollagen-1 from UVA exposure14
Bacterial strains and culture conditions Stock cultures of Bacillus pumilus SAFR-32 (ATCC PTA-126909) were stored at -80˚C in tryptic soy broth (TSB; BD Diagnostic Systems, Cat# DF0064-07-6) containing 25% (v/v) glycerol (ThermoScientific, Cat# 17904). Monthly, frozen stock cultures were transferred to working cultures by plating on tryptic soy agar (TSA; BD Diagnostic Systems, Cat# DF0370-075) slants/ plates and incubating at 37˚C for 24 hours. Periodically, working cultures were streaked
to ensure purity. Cultures were incubated overnight in TSB at 37˚C on a rotary shaker set at 150 rpm. All cultures were diluted with TSB to the desired cell numbers.
Production of Bacillus Lysate Working cultures were made by transferring 10µL of Bacillus pumilus SAFR-32 stock culture to a test tube containing 9 mL of TSB. The inoculated tube was allowed to incubate at 37˚C for 18 hours on a rotary shaker set to 150 rpm. Overnight growth (1 mL) was transferred
Supplier % w/w 1
1 1 1
2 2 2 2 3 4
2 5 6 7 2 6 8 9 6
to multiple Erlenmeyer flasks each containing 200 mL of TSB. The flasks were incubated at 37˚C for 18 hours on a rotary shaker set to 100 rpm. Following incubation, the flasks were autoclaved at 121˚C at 16 psi for 45 min. Once sterile, the contents from each flask were transferred to sterile 500 mL Oakridge centrifuge bottles (Corning, Cat#
13-701-109) and centrifuged (Sorvall Lynx 4000 Superspeed; F12-6x500LEX rotor) for 15 minutes at 6,861 rpm (8,000 xg). The supernatant was decanted, and each pellet resuspended in 4 mL of sterile deionized water. The suspended pellets were pooled together
and aliquoted (25 mL) in to sterile 50 mL conical tubes (Falcon 352070, Cat#14-432-22). Each conical tube was sonicated (FisherBrand Ultra Sonicator; Model FB120) with a CL-18 probe for ten minutes with a pulse cycle time of 30 seconds at 80% amplitude setting. The sonicated samples were then pooled
together and sterilized a second time with a 45-minute autoclave cycle at 121˚C at 16 psi. The sterilized product was designated Bacillus Lysate. The total protein concentration
TABLE 2: SPF 30 SUNSCREEN CONTAINING 3% BACILLUS LYSATE Phase Ingredients / INCI
5.000 5.000 5.000 3.000 5.000 3.000 3.000 2.500 4.500 1.000 51.100 0.100 1.000 0.200 3.000 1.500 2.000 0.500 1.500 1.500
10 0.500 11
0.100
Procedure: Heat phase A to 85°C while stirring. Heat phase B to 80°C and add to phase A while stirring and homogenizing the emulsion. Cool down the emulsion to 40°C and add phase C.
Suppliers: 1. DSM 2. Protameen 3. Seppic 4. Dow Chemicals 5. Shulke 6. Ess. Ingredients 7. Pride 8. Evonik 9. Jarchem 10. Jeen Internat.
A Octocrylene (PARSOL® 340) Homosalate (PARSOL® HMS)
Ethylhexyl Salycilate (PARSOL® EHS) Avobenzone (PARSOL® 1789) Caprylic Capric Triglycerides
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate
Cetearyl alcohol (and) Ceteareth 20 (Procol L CS-20-D) Cetyl alcohol
C15-19 Alkane (Emogreen L-19) B Deionized water
Dimethicone (XIAMETER® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10 cSt) EDTA (Protacide Na3 EDTA)
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (Euxyl PE 9010) Carbomer (Carbopol® 940 Polymer) Glycerin
Polysorbate 20 Propanediol (Zemea) Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Tegosoft PC 41) C
Sodium Hyaluronate (and) water (Actique™ Hyal 1%) Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Water (Floraesters K-20W) Triethanolamine 99% Tocopherol clear
D Bacillus Lysate 11. Jedwards
1 1 1
2 2 2 2 3 4
2 5 6 7 2 6 8 9 6
Supplier % w/w 1
5.000 5.000 5.000 3.000 5.000 3.000 3.000 2.500 4.500 1.000
48.100 0.100 1.000 0.200 3.000 1.500 2.000 0.500 1.500 1.500
10 0.500 11
0.100 3.00
Procedure: Heat phase A to 85°C while stirring. Heat phase B to 80°C and add to phase A while stirring and homogenizing the emulsion. Cool down the emulsion to 40°C and add phase C. Add phase D and homogenized.
Suppliers: 1. DSM 2. Protameen 3. Seppic 4. Dow Chemicals 5. Shulke 6. Ess. Ingredients 7. Pride 8. Evonik 9. Jarchem 10. Jeen Internat.
PERSONAL CARE October 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108
