IN-COSMETICS ASIA PREVIEW
Seppic (J80) will showcase its new biomimetic and eco-designed active ingredient that restores skin firmness, Sagacious. Inspired by nature, it acts on all skin layers meaning the skin becomes significantly firmer and the signs of facial sagging are less visible. Sagacious inspired by the behaviour of plants in the International Space Station, which, to maintain their integrity in zero gravity, synthesize specific molecules from the glycolipids family. Seppic has succeeded in extracting this family of molecules from Himanthalia elongata seaweed using an eco- designed and patented process. The ingredient has been shown in studies
to improve skin firmness eight times more than the placebo and decreases the visibility of nasogenian folds (efficacy clinically proven after 28 days). Its mode of action has been evaluated also in vitro, demonstrating a restoration of mechanical properties of fibroblasts close to the value of a fibroblast 28 years younger.
Seppic (J80) Along with KSP-100W, Shin-Etsu is also
showcasing its new KM-116 Silicone Gel Emulsion – an O/W emulsion with high concentration of silicone gel elastomer which gives you soft and unique velvety feel. The emulsion is well-prepared so it is easy to blend into the formulation by simple stirring.
Shin-Etsu Silicones (L70)
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healing and whitening. It is an endopeptidase enzyme containing hydrosulfide group (-SH), and its molecular weight is 21000. Papain is an effective peel-off substrate for
the renewal of soft skin. This makes the skin look fresh and younger after the treatment, says the Chinese firm.
Vitamin C60 BioResearch (Q30) is launching two new products claimed to be world firsts. Gluca Moist is the world’s first complex polysaccharide derived from torula yeast cell wall, which was upcycled from yeast after seasoning production using proprietary technology. The moisturizing mechanism of the complex polysaccharide has been confirmed to improve skin texture and is expected to be used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including anti-pollution skincare and hair care products. The other new launch is Yeast Veil, said to
Soho Aneco Chemicals (L81) is launching BioSyn- Bisabolol in response to the growing demand for α-bisabolol, a natural ingredient uses in traditional medicine for hundreds of years. With multiple effects such as anti-inflammatory, skin soothing, and barrier repair, it can protect the skin from daily stress and is particularly suitable for products for sensitive skin care, baby care, and after-sun care applications. The Chinese company produces BioSyn-
Sethic Innovations (W52) will demonstrate its Optimealth Super-Metabiotics ingredients made using its patented multi-strain biomimetic fermentation technology platform. The fermentation process emulates the conditions of the human digestive system using a co-culture of dozens of different strains of lactobacilles and bifidobacteriales. Optimealth Super-Metabiotics contain 300+
identified and quantified active molecules such as amino acids, active peptides, short chain fatty acids, flavonoids in a very stable liquid or powder form, easy to formulate. The efficiency of the ingredients, which are available in different grades for skin care, scalp care and oral care, are claimed by the Chinese firm to be proven by 16 in vitro and 22 in vivo studies.
Shaanxi Huatai Bio-fine Chemical (A47) is a manufacturer and supplier of ingredients such as Glabridin, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (DPG), Monoammonium Glycyrrhizinate(MAG), 18-β-Enoxolone, Stearyl Gycyrrhetinate, Oat Beta Glucan, Yeast Beta Glucan, Totarol, Portulaca Extract, Coenzyme Q10, Hyaluronic Acid and other plant extract series of products.
Shin-Etsu Silicones (L70) is introducing KSP- 100W Hydrophilized Hybrid Silicone Powder. The hydrophilized surface makes it compatible with various aqueous ingredients. The advantages of hybrid silicone remain to provide a soft feel with natural look as same as its original KSP-100.
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Bisabolol through large-scale fermentation, which solves the problem of unstable supply of natural sources of α-bisabolol due to seasonal factors. This green production also protects biodiversity and plays a positive environmental role while ensuring high purity and quality. An integrated production chain meanwhile reduces production costs.
Korean firm The Garden of Naturalsolution (K31) will showcase its skincare ingredient, Greenth. Greenth`s main properties are fortifying the skin barrier, skin moisturizing, and exfoliation. The glycolic acids, such as AHA, BHA, and PHA in Greenth offer numerous benefits for skin, such as exfoliation, hydration, and repair. The extraction method used for the preparation
of Greenth is its unique Megasonic Extraction technology. Megasonic Extraction is a method of extraction using a high frequency of 700 kHz to 1.2 MHz, with which it extracts several active ingredients in a short time thanks to its high energy efficiency compared to hot water extraction.
Japanese exhibitor TriBeaute (F31) will reveal Aurum Blue Rose, an innovative active ingredient clinically proven for hair care (toughness and intensity) and scalp care (sebum, disorder, odour and specific microflora change). Studies have also shown that the ingredient’s blue rose extract improves microbial diversity and boosts skin care through microflora, antioxidant, anti-glycation and autophagy activation (stress management).
Vital-Chem Zhuhai (W35) will showcase Papain, a natural enzyme from the seeds of the papaya fruit with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits, as well as being good for wound
October 2023 PERSONAL CARE
be the world’s first yeast cell wall cosmetic ingredient, made by upcycling yeast after beer brewing using proprietary technology. The moisture veil created by the yeast cell wall has been proven to improve wrinkles. In addition, because it provides a high quality feel, it is expected to be used not only in moisturizing cosmetics, but also in sunscreen.
Vytrus Biotech (D21) is proposing a new concept in sustainable plant biotechnology: the Photobiome Factor, a new approach on how skin microbiota interacts with the sun, triggering a new microbiota pathway to fight skin photoageing. Photobiome – The microbiota photoprotector,
says the Spanish company, is a new prebiotic active that opens the door to a new category of microbial antioxidants by helping skin microbiota photoprotect itself by protecting and nourishing bacteria, modulating its release of natural photo- defence molecules to tackle skin photodamage while improving the signs of the photoageing process.
Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Materials (Q85) is an ISO9001/14001/45001 certified listed silicone manufacturer. The Chinese firm produces silicone for personal care, including 0.65-2cst Dimethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, Methyl Trimethicone, Methyl MQ Silicone Resin, silicone elastomer gel, silicone blends, PEG-12 Dimethicone, D5 and more. For volatile silicone fluids 1cst Dimethicone, 1.5cst Dimethicone, 2cst Dimethicone, the company has obtained official REACH registration.
Last, but not least, Personal Care Global magazine (C100) has built a reputation as the leading source of technical information available to personal care formulators across the globe. The magazine focuses on new ingredient technology, providing detailed but clearly-presented analyses from the leading ingredient manufacturers, as well as in-depth market overviews from the top industry consultants and market researchers.
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