UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
Upcycled food waters for cosmetic formulations
Paul-Hubert Baudelet, Stéphanie Alves, Daria Zhydovych, Laurie Lejart, Clémentine Verove, Laurent Royer, Lionel Muniglia - Biolie
Industries must constantly adapt their ways to produce due to the environmental issues and climate change. For example, this can be done through the reduced use of essential resources such as water. Similarly, since the impact of the cosmetics
industry on the environment is closely monitored by both consumers and authorities, the new innovative and environmentally friendly approaches are always welcomed in this industry. Thus, companies in the cosmetics sector mainly focus on areas such as local and sustainable sources of supply, the environmental impact of production, packaging as well as new sustainable formulations. Indeed, cosmetics formulators are never
ceased to create the more and more innovative concepts to follow current trends and to please the consumer. The consumers nowadays are more aware of the environmental impact of their habits and try to reduce it in every field of their life, including the personal care products. As water seems to be, at first glance, a
‘useless’ ingredient without any activity on the skin, solid cosmetics became very trendy. Water-free formula and natural packaging give an impression of being sustainable alternatives. However, when considering the energy used to dry all the powders, the impact on the environment is far from being positive. The solution to this problem could be the use
of waters extracted from fruits. In addition, they could facilitate obtaining organic certification if the fruits are organically grown.1
However, it is
out of the question to produce fruits on purpose which would be intended for fruit waters as this
100 80 60 40 20 0 0
agri-food activities on a global scale would be caused by uneaten food.3
to valorize this food waste to decrease the global carbon imprint. To provide a solution to these two complex
problems, Biolie has used its patented enzymatic extraction technology to create certified organic vegetable waters.4
It resulted in three active
extracts of organic zucchini, organic pear, and organic cucumber. All these raw materials are coproducts of the food industry according to their size or shape. Indeed, the part that makes the major
difference consists of using the Biolie’s innovative technology which is enzymatic assisted aqueous extraction. It has been demonstrated through various studies that this type of extraction involves a minimal contribution to global warming, pollution emissions and requires lower energy consumption, compared to conventional methods.5,6 Another strong point of these vegetable
waters is the raw material itself because the antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase properties of pear trees are very well studied.7,8
would generate additional water consumption which is the opposite of ecological. Another global issue is the food waste.
While people in developing countries suffer from starving, almost one third of total food grown globally is wasted. The global losses were estimated at more than 1.3 billion tons per year.2 In addition, 8% to 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions out of a total of 24% emitted by
ZE ■ CE ■ PE ■ In addition,
cucumber and zucchini extracts can be used in the fight against skin aging because they inhibit the enzymes responsible for the degradation of elastin and hyaluronic acid.9-11 We notice that often food and cosmetic
trends are very close and cosmetic products are often seen by consumers as ‘nutrients for the skin’. For some time now, players of the cosmetics industry have been looking for ingredients capable of protecting the skin microbiome and skin from external irritation, for example pollution.12-14 That is why these vegetable waters have
been thoroughly studied to determine their impact on the inhibition of collagenase, tyrosinase, DPPH, as well as their action on the cutaneous bacterial microbiota.
Impact of enzymatic extraction The use of enzymes during extraction made it possible to increase the weight of waters as well as to reduce the weight of residues by almost a quarter, while saving almost half of the lost mass compared to a conventional method. This is valid for the three types of raw
5 10
15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 Dose of vegetable water tested (%)
Figure 1: DPPH inhibition of vegetable waters at increasing doses. ZE = zucchini extract, CE = cucumber extract, PE = pear extract
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material studied. This proves that the use of enzymes improves yields compared to usual procedures. In addition, it reduces the amount of waste after extraction and increases the recovery of the raw material.
October 2023 PERSONAL CARE That is why it is urgent
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Inhibition of DPPH (%)
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