58 HYGIENE
5ppm (Table 2), lower than the value found for usnic acid itself, confirm for the sodium salt derivative the same activity profile of its parent molecule. The effective control of the resident bacteria
proliferation within some critical body areas, like the underarm, is considered a correct and physiological method to avoid ‘bad odour’ formation, such deriving from the degradation process made by the bacteria population present on the skin surface on apocrine sweat. Such process leads to the formation of chemical compounds having a low molecular weight and therefore volatile (e.g. short chain acids and aldehides) which are perceived as ‘bad odour’.7 Sodium usnate revealed the same low MIC
values (2ppm) against S. epidermidis as well as C. tuberculostearicum (Table 3), which is described from different studies in literature as the most frequently strains isolated from plugs of human volunteers and related to the body odour.8
to its strong selective antibacterial properties, the active ingredient turns out an effective natural alternative for deodorant cosmetic products. Acne can be described as a disorder of the
pilosebaceous unit, also characterized from a skin microflora imbalance. Propionibacterium acnes is a Gram+ resident bacteria of the skin’s follicles, mostly involved in this kind of skin discomfort, together with further bacteria, such as Staph. epidermidis and Corynebacteria. Further recent in vitro studies have also outlined a marked activity profile against Propionibacterium acnes (Table 4). With a very low MIC value against P. acnes, sodium usnate is able to control the excess of bacteria proliferation while favours a reset of the skin microbiota balance.
TABLE 2: MIC VALUE OF EVOSINA 100 TOWARDS A POOL OF GRAM+ BACTERIA
Trade name
Staphylococcus aureus
Staphylococcus epidermidis
K. rhizophila S. pyogenes
Bacillus cereus B. spizizenii
Enterococcus hirae 20 -
- -
- - - -
10 -
- -
- - - -
MIC (in ppm) 5
+
- -
- - - +
2 +
- -
+ - - +
Sodium usnate showed very high potential Thanks
in counteracting dandruff and dermatitis, showing a very low MIC result towards Malassezia furfur (P. ovale) (Table 5), a genus of fungi naturally found on the skin surface and responsible of these annoying discomforts. Very low MIC results also evidenced a high
potential of sodium usnate to counteract pathogenic microorganisms that typically colonize the mouth, such as Streptococcus mutans and Porphyromonas gingivalis (Table 6), which are mainly involved in bacterial biofilm formation, tooth decay, periodontal diseases and halitosis. At last, a recent study demonstrated that
toothpaste formulations containing usnic acid were no cause of citotoxic effect on gingival keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Such experimental evidence can therefore justify a possible use of usnic acid and sodium usnate in oral hygiene cosmetic products.9
Absent ■ Slight ■ Moderate ■ Marked ■ Very marked ■ Placebo
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0 T0-48h T28-48h SHAMPOO B - 1% EVOSINA GP GREEN 1% Evosina GP Green
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0 Benchmark T0-48h T28-48h T45-48h BENCHMARK SHAMPOO (0.5% PIROCTONE OLAMINE) T45-48h 0.5% Evosina GP Green T0-48h T28-48h SHAMPOO A - 0.5% EVOSINA GP GREEN T45-48h PLACEBO SHAMPOO
TABLE 3: MIC VALUE OF EVOSINA 100 TOWARDS BACTERIA TYPICALLY INVOLVED IN BODY ODOURS
Trade name
Staphylococcus epidermidis
Corynebacterium tuberculostearicum
MIC (in ppm) 2ppm 2ppm
TABLE 4: MIC VALUE OF EVOSINA 100 TOWARDS PROPIONIBACTERIUM ACNES
Strain tested Propionibacterium acnes MIC 0.01%
TABLE 5: MIC VALUE OF EVOSINA GP GREEN TOWARDS MALASSEZIA FURFUR
Strain tested Malassezia furfur MIC 0.1%
TABLE 5: MIC VALUE OF EVOSINA GP GREEN TOWARDS TYPICAL ORAL STRAINS
Strain tested S. mutans
P. gingivalis
MIC (in ppm) 2.5ppm 1.25ppm
Anti-dandruff efficacy In vivo clinical study (test rinse-off) A clinical study was performed with the primary aim to assess whether a cosmetic shampoo formulation with the active ingredient have an effect in reducing desquamation and scalp redness as well as improving sebaceous balance of the scalp.
T0-48h
Figure 1: Reduction of redness after application of a placebo shampoo, 0.5% and 1% Evosina GP Green shampoo, benchmark (rinse-off application)
PERSONAL CARE October 2023
T28-48h
T45-48h
Figure 2: Reduction of redness after application of a placebo shampoo, 0.5% and 1% Evosina GP Green shampoo, benchmark (rinse-off application) – Images detected by HIROX - RX 2000 3D
www.personalcaremagazine.com
T0-30min T0-48h T01-30min T01-48h T28-30min T28-48h T45-30min T0-30min T0-48h T01-30min T01-48h T28-30min T28-48h T45-30min T45-48h T0-30min T0-48h T01-30min T01-48h T28-30min T28-48h T45-30min T0-30min T0-48h T01-30min T01-48h T28-30min T28-48h T45-30min T45-48h T45-48h T45-48h
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