94 UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
Antioxidant activity All three extracts were subsequently subjected to the DPPH test to determine their antioxidant properties (Figure 1). Among the three extracts, pear water showed the highest antioxidant potential because it is able at a dose of 25% to inhibit nearly 90% of free radicals. That is why these waters can be used in formulas as an excellent skin protector against environmental aggressions.
Anti-collagenase activity Collagenase is an enzyme that occurs naturally in the body. It plays an important role in the aging of the skin because it can degrade collagen, responsible for firmness, and therefore this leads to the formation of wrinkles.15 All three extracts showed considerable
inhibition of collagenase, reaching 100% for water doses greater or equal to 20% (Figure 2). Consequently, these waters have the capacity to preserve the skin from the remodeling of the extracellular matrix.
Tyrosinase inhibition activity Being responsible for skin pigmentation, tyrosinase is an important element for melanogenesis.15,16
ZE ■ CE ■ PE ■
100 80 60 40 20 0 0
5
10
15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 Dose of vegetable water tested (%)
Figure 2: Collagenase inhibition of the vegetable waters at increasing doses. ZE = zucchini extract, CE = cucumber extract, PE = pear extract
compared with those obtained with water. Different genera of bacteria have reacted
The initial function of these
pigments is protection against solar radiation. However, excessive pigmentation causes the
appearance of age spots. These active waters were evaluated in terms of their abilities to inhibit this enzyme. Zucchini, cucumber, and pear extracts have shown their ability to inhibit more than 50% of tyrosinase activity at a dose of 20% each (Figure 3). Moreover, at a 50% dose, more than 80%
of tyrosinase activity was inhibited by all three. Therefore, they can be used to reduce the appearance of pigment spots.
Prebiotic activity Another important point was to estimate the impact of this active aqueous extracts on the healthy human skin microbiota. For this reason, individual isolated species were put in contact with two different concentrations of vegetable waters, 20% and 40%, and the results were
100 80 60 40 20
0 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 Dose of vegetable water tested (%)
Figure 3: Tyrosinase inhibition of the vegetable extracts at increasing doses. ZE = zucchini extract, CE = cucumber extract, PE = pear extract
PERSONAL CARE October 2023
differently on those three vegetable waters. For example, Cutibacterium spp. were negatively impacted or not impacted at all. Meanwhile Corynebacterium spp. was found to be not or positively impacted by the active waters. The latter also negatively impact Staphylococcus aureus and S. capitis and increase the growth of S. hominis and S. lugdunensis. As a result, neutral impact of zucchini
active water was shown on 67% and 55% of the bacterial strains at the 20% and 40% dose respectively. For the cucumber extract, the results were not very distant: 55% and 47% of the strains were not impacted at the dose of 20% and 40% respectively. By contrast to the first two, for both doses of
pear active water only 40% had similar growth to control. Yet the overall results show that all extracts are functionally active and help to maintain the stability of the skin microorganism diversity as well as to protect it from the foreign pathogens.17 However, formulators often use
preservatives to protect finished products from contamination by pathogenic microorganisms. These preservatives can in turn also disrupt the composition of the skin microbiome. This is
ZE ■ CE ■ PE ■
why nowadays the claim ‘microbiome friendly’ is only possible for extracts that respect the skin microbiome in formulas without preservatives.18,19 With all these properties, we realize that these three aqueous extracts of pear, cucumber and zucchini can be used in several types of skin care applications. It is their properties of inhibition of enzymes that involved in skin ageing that makes them so versatile. In addition, they represent a sustainable
alternative to the use of conventional water because they allow the replacement of water in cosmetic formulas and to avoid the counterproductive practices. One of the parameters that makes these waters sustainable is the recovery of co-products from the food industry. These are fruits and vegetables in perfect
condition, but which do not conform to the food industry because of their size or shape. In addition, to limit transport and therefore CO2 emissions, the maximum distance between the sources of supply of these raw materials and the production site is 300 kilometres. Another factor that makes these vegetable
waters environmentally friendly is the technology used. Indeed, it is composed of five stages, which are: grinding, hydrolysis, enzymatic deactivation, separation, as well as filtration. Heating is now used only during hydrolysis and enzymatic deactivation, which is quite modest in terms of energy consumption. Moreover, for this technology no additional water is added because the raw material contains enough of it and the quantities of enzymes added are also optimized. Although the use of enzymes requires an additional stage of deactivation at relatively high temperature for a very limited period, this approach makes it possible to increase the yields of extracts by 20% and thus reduce the solid residues in addition to contributing to the enrichment of the aqueous extract in biomolecules. Overall, the process generates very small
quantities of waste, which is then recovered by anaerobic digestion and composting. Thus, these aqueous extracts could be an excellent water replacement in cosmetic formulations, which generally contain between 20% and 80% of water.
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Inhibition of collagenase (%)
Inhibition of collagenase (%)
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