SUN CARE
Unlocking UV benefits and claims beyond SPF
Amy Huang, Rolf Schütz, Jochen Klock - DSM-Firmenich ABSTRACT
The impacts of UV radiation on the skin are widely recognized to a certain extent. The adverse effects encompass immediate consequences such as acute sunburn and inflammation, as well as long-term outcomes such as photoageing and pigmentary disorders. Moreover, the potential risk of developing
skin cancer due to UV exposure should not be disregarded. This raises the question: Why take the risk of being exposed to UV radiation? It is worth noting that there are some positive aspects associated with exposure, such as mood enhancement, tanning, vitamin D production, and blood pressure reduction.1 However, it is important to highlight that
only a relatively small amount of exposure is necessary to attain these benefits. UV exposure is believed to contribute to
around 80% of the visible signs associated with facial skin ageing.2
UV radiation has been
proven to cause DNA damage and trigger the production of reactive oxygen species in living skin cells. These processes subsequently result in an
increase in melanin and elastase levels, while simultaneously causing collagen breakdown and inhibiting new collagen synthesis. As a result, the visible consequences can manifest as hyperpigmentation in the form of dark spots, reduced skin elasticity, an uneven distribution of collagen and elastin leading to an uneven skin tone, as well as the emergence of fine lines and wrinkles.3 Research indicates that a significant
percentage of American women, around 90%,4 express concerns about the effects of sun exposure on their facial skin. However, our own survey conducted in 2018, involving 5,600 respondents across eight countries, revealed that only 38% of these consumers worldwide were using facial UV protection on a daily basis.5 Many individuals still associate sun protection
primarily with beach days, rather than considering it as an essential component of their everyday facial care routine. Furthermore, some consumers may be hesitant to apply sunscreens due to perceived unpleasant sensory experiences or the additional burden of remembering to incorporate it into their busy lives. To address this issue, the industry can take
two approaches. Firstly, we can integrate UV filters into a broader range of daily facial care products that are convenient and enjoyable for consumers to use. Simultaneously, we can raise
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Despite the mounting evidence that even minimal exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation can lead to visible signs of skin aging, and the growing concerns among consumers regarding the impact of sun exposure on facial skin, the regular use of facial UV protection remains relatively low. One contributing factor to this trend is the prevailing belief that sun protection is only necessary when engaging in activities like going to the beach, where the primary concern is avoiding sunburn. However, it is important to recognize that while UV filters effectively shield the skin from sunburn, they also offer a broader range of benefits for skincare. To raise awareness about these advantages, DSM-Firmenich conducted an extensive review of scientific studies exploring the role of UV filters in five key areas: prevention of photoaging, hyperpigmentation prevention, protection against blue light, defence against the risk of skin cancer, and support for skin barrier immunity. In this article, we present a summary of the main findings in each of these areas.
awareness of the various skincare benefits that UV filters offer beyond mere sunburn protection during beach outings. In this article, we provide an overview of five
facial care benefits associated with UV filters, which the general public may not be fully aware of. We also present scientific studies that support these claims, aiming to increase understanding and appreciation for the broader advantages of incorporating UV filters into everyday skincare routines.
Benefit 1: Daily use of UV filters can help prevent photoageing Consumer studies indicate that many individuals have concerns about the potential ageing effects of sun exposure on their facial skin. Consequently, protecting against these effects is often cited as a primary reason for regularly using facial SPF products.6,7
These
concerns are well-founded, as even minimal but consecutive doses of UV radiation can harm the skin.8
UV radiation intensity can be categorized
into two groups: higher intensity levels known as erythemal doses, which can cause noticeable damage like sunburn, and lower intensity levels called sub-erythemal doses. Although damage from lower intensity levels may not be immediately apparent, it can accumulate over time, contributing to the development of photoaging. Notably, our own study demonstrated that the use of SPF can mitigate the impact of repetitive sub-erythemal UV radiation.8
The
study involved six volunteers with skin types I or II. Over 11 consecutive days, participants applied a sunscreen formulation with an SPF of 7.5 and a control formulation (lacking UV filters) once daily, while receiving 0.6 minimal erythema dose (MED) of Solar Simulated Radiation (SSR).
The study’s findings, illustrated in Figure
1, show how sunscreen application effectively prevents erythema, assessed using reflectance spectroscopy.
October 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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